The terroir, in short, is very diverse, with the gravel belt changing every half hectare or so. From this extraordinary tapestry emerge some of the finest wines in the world.

Pomerol – terroirs & wines

Atop the plateau, clay has pushed its way to the surface, forming the button of clay which is home to Pétrus. To the east, the soil is gravely, as is the subsoil, while the centre is clay-gravel over clay and the west is sandy. Examined from a vantage point above the vineyards at La Fleur-Pétrus, it is even possible see variations in the colour of the soil which are less obvious at ground level. Given the revered nature of the gravels on the left bank, it may seem strange to enthuse so much about clay, but the dominant grape variety is different here, Merlot thriving on cool, damp soils to produce a characteristic lusciousness.

Pomerol houses some of the world’s most sought-after properties yet there is no official classification here. There is acceptance of an unofficial ranking which, by virtue of its having no legal basis, allows for fluidity within the ranks, healthy rivalry and some jockeying for position. Since opinions can only be changed by real qualitative differences between wines, this only strengthens the reputation of Pomerol. The wines tend to seduce the taster with their combination of finesse, richness and generosity.

The desirability of the wines of Pomerol is in inverse proportion to its diminutive size, with just 780 hectares under vine (for comparison: Moulis 635ha, Margaux 1,410ha, Saint-Julien 910ha, Vosne-Romanée 238ha). It is separated from its satellite Lalande de Pomerol to the north, by the Barbanne stream. To the west and south, Libourne sprawl is its boundary and, to the east, Châteaux Figeac and Cheval-Blanc.

Pomerol - history

The region has something of a chequered history. A stopping point for pilgrims on their way to Santiago de Compostela, the Hospitaliers of Saint John of Jerusalem built accommodation here for the pilgrims. Viticulture had begun with the Romans and now there were religious reasons to cultivate the vine. Devastation and ruin ensued during the 100 Years War but the vineyards were rebuilt during the 15t ^h and 16 ^th centuries, only to be raised to the ground again during the Religious wars. However, once restored, the wines of Pomerol started to become better known. They were improving and demand increased so that towards the end of the 18 ^th century, in response to their desirability, a syndicate was created to protect the appellation. The Pomerol growers were particularly far-sighted as this was some thirty-five years before the establishment of the appellation system.

The late Jean-Pierre Moueix did much to lead Pomerol into the limelight in the twentieth century, taking it from relative obscurity to a level where demand dramatically outstrips supply. Pétrus is the undisputed flagbearer within the unofficial classification, heading a breathtaking list of top properties. Trotanoy, Certan de May, La Conseillante, and Hosanna all set pulses racing and yet they all have their own, very distinctive style. La Fleur-Pétrus is one of the best ambassadors for the concept of terroir . Just a stone’s throw from Pétrus, the soil is completely different and so is the resulting wine. La Grave à Pomerol is different again, reflecting lighter, more gravelly soil whilst Latour à Pomerol gets its personality from a mix of different terroirs . The lodging house provided by the Knights Hospitaliers for the Santiago de Compostela pilgrims was on the Gazin estate and this is reflected in the second wine produced there, Hospitalet de Gazin – an accessible entry point to the wines of Pomerol. Gazin itself is a very fine Pomerol.

Lalande de Pomerol

The Barbanne stream delineates where Pomerol ends and Lalande-de-Pomerol begins. The land is relatively low lying and combines sandy conditions with clay and gravel breaking through, over limestone and iron. Lalande-de-Pomerol can produce ripe, generous, plummy wines, lifted by mineral notes and those from the best properties are certainly worth seeking out.