The Langhe area of Italy's Piedmont region is one of the most staggeringly beautiful wine regions in the world. This is home to the celebrated vineyards of Giacomo Conterno. Third generation Roberto Conterno, now at the helm, is firmly rooted in this land, fundamentally steeped in its tradition.
With a palpable love and profound respect for his inherited terroir, Roberto Conterno has been the heart and soul of Giacomo Conterno since his father Giovanni’s untimely death in 2003. It cannot ever be easy to take over from an iconic figure and Roberto descends from a line of them. Giacomo Conterno, Roberto’s grandfather was a pioneer in the region from humble beginnings, selling from a small bar. By 1974, with the business already firmly established, Roberto’s father Giovanni undertook the fortuitous and massively courageous investment in the six-hectare monopole of Cascina Francia.
Photo: The late Giovanni Conterno and his son Roberto
Cascina Francia, the Conterno monopole vineyard, is located in Serralunga d’Alba in the Langhe hills of southern Piedmont, situated at 400 metres above sea level. Cascina Francia comprises a calcareous-limestone slope with blue marl and veins of sandstone, facing south-west – a fabulous site. When Giovanni Conterno purchased the property it really put the family company, Giacomo Conterno, firmly on the map. Quality had always been the family’s watchword and the company hallmark but, for the first time, this was entirely under family control. Prior to this, they had bought in grapes and were super-selective, but this acquisition took pursuit of excellence to a higher plane.
There are fourteen hectares in total now, 4.6ha of Barbera and 9.4ha of Nebbiolo. There had formerly been 5ha of Dolcetto and Freisa but these were uprooted in 2001, in favour of Barbera and Nebbiolo. Roberto Conterno is a firm advocate of organic viticulture constantly aware of the sustainability of his land and his responsibility to past, present and future generations. Total production is around 50,000 bottles per annum. The yields of Barbera d’Alba and Barolo are generally between 30 and 35 hl/ha with Monfortino, when produced, 30 hl/ha.
Giacomo Conterno – the cellar
Roberto Conterno, like his father before him, produces all of his wines in a very traditional way. Fermentation is carried out at around 30°C, its duration varying according to the wine and the vintage:
- Barbera generally enjoys a 15-20 day maceration
- Barolo generally enjoys a 30-35 day maceration
In absolutely exceptional vintages, a selection is made from the very best of the Nebbiolo grapes which go on to produce Barolo Riserva Monfortino. Monfortino undergoes a separate fermentation. There is no temperature control, with peaks of around 35°C/36°C, and the maceration is longer. After fermentation, the wines are decanted into classic Slavonian oak large barrels, botti , where they rest before bottling. The ageing time for Barbera is two years, Barolo four years and Monfortino seven years, minimum.