St-Julien offers something of a paradox. A small commune, with no first growths, it has an extraordinarily loyal following, its wines amongst the most highly sought after year on year. This is small wonder when the best call on the attributes of neighbours Margaux and Pauillac, forging unique personalities. Despite the absence of a first growth, 80% of St-Julien production is from classified growths – eleven in total – in line with its exemplary terroir. St-Julien enjoys an extension of the Pauillac ridge of deep gravel, overlooking the Gironde. The gravel is not quite as profound as in Pauillac, lying over clay, pebbles, sand and flint, in varying proportions. This accounts for a change of style. Travelling south from St-Estèphe into the commune of St-Julien, the gravel plateau is home to the three Léoville seconds; Las Cases, Poyferré and Barton, at one time a single property.
The largest of the three Léoville estates, Las Cases, stretching as far north as Latour, is generally accepted to have aspirations of first growth status. In fairness this would often be merited, as its rather ambitious pricing reflects.
Léoville-Poyferré is the second largest, with 80ha, against Las Cases’ 97ha. Since 1979 this property has enjoyed huge investment under the dynamic management of Didier Cuvelier with marked improvements in the resulting wines.
A highlight of a week in Bordeaux is a visit to Langoa Barton (a third growth), a stunning property with beautiful gardens, a haven in which to retreat from the hustle and bustle of château hopping. Anthony Barton, Eva and their daughter Lilian are wonderful hosts. Both Langoa and Léoville-Barton are made in a very traditional way and are all the better for that. St-Julien is better expressed with balance, finesse and elegance, rather than power.
Further south, Châteaux Beychevelle, Branaire-Ducru and Ducru-Beaucaillou all share the same south-eastern corner of the St-Julien gravel bank, the latter occupying the best site geologically. The Borie family have looked after the property impeccably and year on year they turn out exquisitely balanced, very pure, elegant wines. At Branaire-Ducru, Patrick Maroteaux has brought about seismic change through massive investment, clearly manifest in the wine. This is lightly-handed, sensitive winemaking resulting, in rather understated elegance and finesse. Beychevelle has not always enjoyed the same level of consistency but high ratings are less of surprise than they used to be. Here finesse should also be the aim, not power. When it all comes together harmoniously, Beychevelle can be a lovely wine. Second growth Gruaud-Larose and fourth growth Talbot enjoy a very loyal UK following and a Corney & Barrowfavourite is the relatively small (17ha) fourth growth estate, Saint-Pierre.