Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière suggests that the Corton and Corton-Charlemagne, produced by Domaine Bonneau du Martray is a product of light rather than heat. The Domaine, in a sense faces the “wrong” way, in textbook terms, its unique aspect facing west and south-west. This increases the influence of light on the vines, particularly in the afternoon and early evening, without running the risk of excessive heat.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray – the vineyards

The Corton and Corton-Charlemagne vineyards are situated in one single block, though they straddle the notional border between Pernand-Vergelesses and Aloxe-Corton. They stretch between ‘En Charlemagne’, next to Pernand-Vergelesses, and ‘Le Charlemagne’, towards Aloxe-Corton. To have a plot of vines of this size in one contiguous block is unusual in the extreme, but that it should be the original plot, owned by the Emperor Charlemagne, is absolutely extraordinary.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray is the single largest holding in Corton-Charlemagne at 9.5 hectares, with an additional tiny 1.5 hectare parcel dedicated to Pinot Noir. This latter produces Grand Cru Corton. One of the first changes made by Jean-Charles after taking over, was the decision to vinify sixteen different, identified parcels separately. Each would impart a particular quality to the wine. At successive parcel tastings the complexity of the vineyard is revealed as outstanding. In general terms there is a floral freshness from the upper slopes, power and texture mid-slope, a rich, sweet, ripe character lower down and all manner of nuances in between.

Pinot Noir is planted on the lower slopes, having been saved from being grubbed up by Jean-Charles' father. The vines are very old, around 45 years, and the yields are therefore correspondingly naturally low.

Another change effected by Jean-Charles is savage restriction in yields and a move to massale selection. This involves propagating vines from the Domaine’s own, most successful plants, and is a method favoured by Jean-Charles to clonal selection as he believes that vines adapt to their surroundings.

No pesticides or herbicides have been used for a long time and now, after many years of discrete and thorough experimentation, Domaine Bonneau de Martray is totally biodynamic.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray – the cellar

The grapes are harvested by hand into small plastic buckets and transported immediately to the winery where fermentation slowly begins, after cold-soaking, usually in stainless steel vats. The wine is then transferred to barrel, one third of which is new, where it is allowed to undergo malolactic fermentation at its own slow pace. Jean-Charles believes in lees-stirring his Corton-Charlemagne, adding to its complexity. The Corton-Charlemagne remains in barrel for twelve months and then spends a further six months back in stainless steel before bottling. The Corton can spend up to eighteen months in barrel, depending on the vintage. Jean-Charles took up the challenge to improve the Bonneau du Martray Corton, very seriously, having won over his father to retain Pinot Noir. Yields are restricted to 30hl per hectare.

The ideal at Bonneau du Martray remains neither to fine nor filter the wine, depending on whether the wine falls bright.

Domaine Bonneau du Martray – the wines

The hallmark of both Domaine Bonneau du Martray Corton and Corton-Charlemagne is the combination of richness, purity and supreme elegance. Under the stewardship of Jean-Charles Le Bault de la Morinière, Domaine Bonneau du Martray has achieved and sustained a fundamental and even majestic quality, which is clearly acknowledged throughout the world. Also acknowledged, and this is bound to change as Domaine Bonneau du Martray continues its upward trajectory, is that it is ridiculously cheap when viewed alongside other grands crus within Burgundy.