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Domaine Bonneau du Martray
To most, Domaine Bonneau du Martray is Corton Charlemagne - one of the very greatest of all Grand Cru white Burgundies, synonymous with a style that combines an aching richness, length and concentration with an incomparable finesse and purity. It is also one of only two domaines in Burgundy, the other being Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, to produce uniquely Grand Cru wines.
The History
Corton Charlemagne itself traces its roots back to the Emperor Charlemagne who gifted his vineyard to the Abbey of Saulieu in the year 775, precisely the same plot now owned by the le Bault de la Morinière family, who are only the third set of owners of the domaine in over twelve centuries. It is this dauntingly ancient tradition of stewardship that now rests so lightly on Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière since he took over the running of the Domaine in 1994.
The Vineyard
Jean-Charles le Bault de la Morinière calls his wine the product of light rather than heat - a consequence of the Domaine's unique aspect, facing west and south west, that increases the influence of light on the vines particularly in the afternoon and early evening without running the risk of excessive heat.
The vineyards are situated in one single block stretching between 'En Charlemagne', next to Pernand Vergelesses, and 'Le Charlemagne', reaching towards Aloxe Corton, although categorised by 16 different parcels, each vinified separately and which give a particular quality to the wine. The estate remains the single largest holding in Corton Charlemagne at just 9.5 hectares, with a tiny 1.5 hectare parcel dedicated to Pinot Noir producing Grand Cru Corton. The vines are very old, around 45 years, and the yields are therefore correspondingly low.
The Winemaking
The grapes are harvested by hand into small plastic buckets and transported immediately to the winery where fermentation slowly begins, usually in stainless steel vats. The wine is then transferred to barrel where it completes its malolactic fermentation very slowly. The white wine remains in barrel for 12 months and then spends a further 6 months back in stainless steel before bottling. The red wine can spend up to 18 months in barrel, depending on the vintage. The ideal remains neither to fine nor filter the wine, depending on whether the wine falls bright.
The Wines
The hallmark of both wines is perhaps the combination of richness and supreme elegance. Under his direction and profound belief in continuity Domaine Bonneau du Martray has achieved a fundamental and even majestic quality that is now acknowledged throughout the world.
The Holdings
Corton Charlemagne, Grand Cru
