Jean-Louis Trapet and his wife Andrée are extremely humble about their transitory role in the context of their inherited land. They are passionate about maintaining and restoring the natural health of their terroir and here, in Andrée’s family farm in Alsace, they have opted to farm biodynamically. The Trapets also exercise biodynamic disciplines in Gevrey-Chambertin. They spend their weekends jostling between the two regions. At the heart of the biodynamic philosophy is the individual treatment of vines, by plant-based compounds, according to a strict timetable, governed by the lunar cycle. Pesticides and chemicals have long been confined to the past and now, at the beck and call of the planets and climate, the Trapets have ceded control of their own lives. Working one property biodynamically is a challenge, let alone two, some distance apart. The wines, however, are stupendous.