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NATURAL SELECTION. THE ART OF BIO DYNAMICS
It is possibly infinitely easier to summarise Einstein's Theory of Relativity than to produce a précis on bio dynamics.
Words by:ALISON BUCHANAN.
Associate Director of Buying.Corney & Barrow London
This science comprises a set of concepts which embraces cosmic rhythms, philosophy, spirituality and metaphysics as much as agricultural disciplines - and that is just for starters. A lifetime's study might make for some truly meaningful understanding so, with a few paragraphs, I will resort to highlighting some background information as well as reporting on our experience of tasting.
Overview
The science of bio dynamics ensures that agriculture is conducted in tune with the basic forces of nature, both terrestrial and celestial. It began in 1924 with the Austrian philosopher Rudolf Steiner's work, some twenty years before the organic movement. Steiner espoused the advantages of gaining real understanding of the forces of nature and in exercising a holistic approach to the ecosystem. Firstly there must be a healthy living soil, often enhanced by judicious quantities of biodynamic, naturally occurring preparations. Taking what most accept as the ecosystem further, however, bio
dynamics recognises the role of the rhythms of light from planets, sun, moon and stars - a greater comprehension of which, the biodynamicist argues, allows for optimal timing for viticultural activity. The plants and soil will simply respond better, they argue, if the farmer is tuned into their needs. By now eyes will have glazed over as it all sounds a tad beyond our natural boundaries of reason… but old Hamlet gave sound advice. After all, we know about lunar cycles, tidal flow and seasonality so have already accepted certain, very obvious aspects of these life forces without questioning. The trouble is that acceptance has to be wholesale - no holds barred. Famous bio dynamics disciple/pioneer Nicolas Joly summed it up in London at a Corney & Barrow seminar: "If you poison your mother-in-law just a little... she will still be dead" The piecemeal approach, it appears, is simply not an option.
"To interfere with the terroir through the introduction of pesticides, herbicides and artificial fertilisers is to radically change that terroir and thus make a mockery of the appellation system."
NICOLAS JOLY
RUDOLPH STEINER
Born in Austria in 1861, Rudolf Steiner may have been the father of bio dynamics, but as a true polymath, his interests went far beyond the realms of agriculture. Also a great philosopher, all of Steiner's works are informed by the notion that to harness the metaphysical, is to improve the physical - an idea which drives both the Steiner Schools, which thrive today. In his approach to agriculture, Steiner believed the health of the soil, plants and animals depends on
reconnecting nature with the creative forces of the cosmos. The practical methods he outlined were intended to be taken to heart by farmers and winemakers alike - with the intention to revitalize the natural forces that are rapidly becoming depleted through modern agricultural techniques. Even if Steiner's philosophies seem a bit 'out there' for some, it is no surprise many producers are embracing his principles when you consider the end result. But don't just take our word for it - try one of the wines (or even a selection) from the list below:
THE PROOF OF THE PUDDING
At Domaine Leflaive, we lived through the years of successive testing, tasting biodynamic versus organic samples, blind, of the same wines. We can report that
the biodynamic wines came top year after year until the Domaine became totally biodynamic in 1998. At Domaine de la Romanée-Conti, however, they continue to experiment but are not, as yet, convinced of any real positive changes in their resulting wines. Possibly this is because the Domaine has worked organically for so long that the changes brought about through bio dynamics were not as apparent as elsewhere. Both the Trapet and Rossignol-Trapet families in Gevrey-Chambertin
are now working according to the principles - and a lot of work it has made for them too, but they recognise a new purity in their wines, which they are sure is a more true expression of their terroir. Nicolas Joly of Coulée de Serrant, speaks with the authority of one who has had undergone a damascene conversion. He witnessed the results of what modern farming methods could do as he saw the soil in his historic vineyard gradually dying, under the influence of herbicides - all at his hand. He then chanced upon Steiner's work and his destiny
changed. He started by transforming practices on his own property and now tirelessly campaigns, the world over, to spread his philosophy.
Whether or not the enormity of what is involved is just too much to take on board, one aspect of it makes total sense and Nicolas now stresses this at his talks, around the world. By signing up to the ideas of appellation, we are all linking wines to a particular terroir. It is senseless however to wax lyrical about the geology of an area, the particularity of its soil and what that imparts to the wine if that soil is then totally transformed by a mixture of chemicals. Logically it must have an effect if we believe, which we do, that soil is important.
AN EQUAL AND OPPOSITE REACTION
It is important to note that for every mere enthusiast or zealot amongst the biodynamicists, there is an equal and opposite reaction from the cynics. The mere suggestion that the vast range of observances and practices constitute a science will probably raise a few eyebrows. Even very diligent organic farmers are very wary of the extreme measures required to fully conform with the disciplines. Adopting bio dynamics is far from an easy option. The rhythms of earth and space are taxing masters but more and more people are experimenting and gradually adopting what, ultimately, is a life changing way of working. The initial aim may be to produce the best and most honest expression of terroir but the responsibilities to successors and the long term sustainability of the land are keenly felt catalysts. C&B
