THE DOMAINE
Adèle and Elsa Matrot took over the running of this family-owned estate from their father Thierry Matrot in the 2016 vintage. Thierry, still very much present at the domaine, had made the wines here for over three decades.
Domaine Matrot is in the centre of Meursault. Both reds and whites are made, with production having been organic since 2000. Chef de cave Gael Fouré has run the domaine’s cellar for nearly 30 years.
We tasted the 2020s in the domaine’s new tasting room with Adèle. She reported that the season had been relatively straightforward, the only challenges concerning the summer heat. This caused a little grillure, or burnt grapes, which were easily eliminated on the sorting table. They kept a watchful eye on acidity, more concerned that it would be too high due to the early harvest than too low due to the heat (it turned out spot-on).
THE WINES
THE 2020 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE MATROT
Harvest here started on 17th August, with the Pinot Noirs from Volnay and Meursault. The Chardonnay was picked from the 22nd, by which time the reds were all in – the first time in the history of the domaine, apparently.
Alcohols are just about perfect, at 13-13.5% for whites and 13.3% on average for reds. Yields in 2020 were mostly respectable, with the whites and the much-loved Blagny averaging 50hl/ha.
There was some crop loss due to the summer heat however, such as in Maranges, which came in at 25hl/ha.
BOURGOGNE CHARDONNAY
This comes mainly from Meursault, with the rest from Chablis, the Hautes Côtes and Maranges (2ha). It has an early-picked early citric precision, brimming with energy and grapefruity zest, with pleasing flesh on the mid-palate, rounded out by 20% new oak. Bottled mid-August 2021.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5
Recommended drinking from 2022–2025
MEURSAULT
Green apple and lemon aromas, leading into a pure-fruited palate of white peach and crunchy, stony-mineral definition. The produce of 35 year-old vines, this is singing in 2020. No new oak – this gets 12 months of élevage in 1-5 year-old barrels.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023–2027
MEURSAULT 1ER CRU BLAGNY
The white soils here – limestone and light clay – contribute to a fine chalky texture, which for me is the signature of this wine. A little struck-match definition on the nose, with a building sense of power on the very pure white peach-fruited palate. A grippy, textured finish. Vinified in 1-3 year-old barrels. 25 barrels in total. This has really over-performed in 2020.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2029
THE 2020 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE MATROT
Harvest here started on 17th August, with the Pinot Noirs from Volnay and Meursault. The Chardonnay was picked from the 22nd, by which time the reds were all in – the first time in the history of the domaine, apparently.
Alcohols are just about perfect, at 13-13.5% for whites and 13.3% on average for reds. Yields in 2020 were mostly respectable, with the whites and the much-loved Blagny averaging 50hl/ha.
There was some crop loss due to the summer heat however, such as in Maranges, which came in at 25hl/ha.
BOURGOGNE PINOT NOIR
The domaine’s Bourgogne Pinot Noir comes from three parcels, two of which are in Puligny and one in Meursault. Bright red cherry fruit aromas. The palate is crunchy and precise on the entry, filling out into a supple, strawberry-fruited mid-palate. 10% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2022–2025
MEURSAULT ROUGE
This has been a favourite for a few years now, an over-achieving Pinot from Meursault. Gorgeous rose petal perfume, with a little savoury spice and pepper. The palate is mid-weight – friendly, supple raspberry fruit, with a pleasant crunch.
Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5
Recommended drinking from 2024–2028
BLAGNY 1ER CRU LA PIÈCE SOUS LE BOIS
The red for which the domaine is known, the Blagny is from a plot just above Sous le Dos d’Âne (from where Domaine Leflaive’s Meursault comes) and directly beneath the wood of Blagny – hence sous le bois. Delicate aromas of forest fruits and dark cherry. The palate is deeply fruited, with a creamy succulence and very supple tannins. As good as I was hoping. 100% destemmed, with 5 days cold soak. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026–2033