Domaine Rossignol-Trapet En Primeur 2020

This is a selection from just over five hectares of 50-85 year old vines, across eight different parcels, with light gravelly soils. Dark berries with a sweet-fruited intensity of aroma. The palate is cool and focused on the entry, firm, fine tannins framing the rich blackberry fruit. 50% whole bunch fermentation, 10% new oak. This is the domaine’s highest production cuvée: 15-20,000 bottles per year are made.

This 1.2 hectare plot, planted in 1978, is on the high part of Teurons, a well-sited parcel close to the woods, next to Aux Cras. A stony, iron-rich red soil, with a cliff on the western side of the slope, which reflects the sun and along with the trees, serves to protect the vines, makes for early ripening. Dark, ripe berry fruits, with a white peppery spice and a floral, sappy lift to the juicy, stony-mineral precision. Really good. 15% new oak, with 50% whole bunch vinification.

This comes from a 0.25 hectare plot planted in 1986, just down the slope and across the road from Mazis-Chambertin. Deft whole bunch spices, tea leaves and deep, dark berries, with mouth-watering freshness and very fine, delicately fruit-coated tannins. The finish is so fine and linear – wonderful wine. Around 50% whole bunch vinification.

Petite Chapelle has a 1.5m deep layer of top-soil and, in David’ words, is “full of clay”. This is a 0.5 hectare holding. Sweet spices and aromas of blueberry, clove and red and black berries. The palate is detailed and peppery, building in intensity from a cool entry to a fleshy, delectable blackberry-fruited mid. Around 50% whole bunch vinification and 25% new oak.

The domaine’s Chapelle-Chambertin comes from two parcels – En la Chapelle (planted in the 1960s) and Les Gémeaux (planted in 1924). Both are warm sites, directly below Clos de Bèze, with a mere 50 centimetres of soil above the rock. It is slightly earlier-ripening than the other grands crus. The soil consists of layers of rock, with holes into which the roots can penetrate. A darkly-fruited nose, with whole-bunch aromatic spices. The palate is cool and focused on the entry, with a briny, stony-mineral core and fresh, salty lift. Peppery and fine. Around 50% whole-bunch vinified.

One parcel here dates from the 1930s and another was planted after the 1956 frost. True to form, Latricières is the most aromatically expressive of the grands crus. Whether this is due to its breezier, less protected aspect, who knows, but this is soaringly pretty. Aromas of rose, lavender, white pepper and tea leaf spice. The palate is so light on its feet, dancing across the tongue, with playful violet aromatics and pure raspberry fruit. 40-50% whole bunch vinified. Loved this – 2020 seems to have suited Latricières fabulously.

This comes from two parcels in the centre of Le Chambertin, simply known as ‘north’ (a third) and ‘south’ (two thirds), at around 300 metres of altitude. The soil here is a metre deep. Wild blackberry, bitter cherry, ground pepper and cedary spice. The palate reverberates with energy, the dark- and red-berried flavours soaring in the mouth thanks to sappy freshness and stony-mineral tension. Very fine yet powerful tannins emerge on the back palate. 50% whole bunch fermentation.