TARDIEU-LAURENT RHÔNE VALLEY

40% Viognier, 30% Grenache Blanc, 10% Marsanne, 10% Roussanne and 10% Clairette. Fine white peach and green citrus aromas. The palate is clipped and precise on the entry, the lime and apple fruit filling out on the mid-palate, with chalky, phenolic grip adding definition. Peach and orange zest on the finish. A refreshing, succulent white. This spends six months ageing in concrete tanks, with no oak. 13.5% abv.

Previously called Guy Louis, Nobles Origines is a blend of the northern and southern Rhône, which is uncommon. 35% Grenache Blanc (70+ years old), 15% Roussanne, 15% Marsanne, 20% Clairette and 15% Viognier. These declassified cru grapes include a third from Crozes-Hermitage. 100% barrel fermentation makes this a fuller bodied option than Becs Fins. Very food-friendly too, with delectable peach-driven flavours. This punches way above its weight. Aged for eight months in new, one- and two-year old barrels. 14% abv.

This comes from three sites around Châteauneuf. 40% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, 20% Clairette, 10% Bourboulenc and 5% Piquepoul. White peach, pepper and cedar aromas. Jasmine, apricot and a salty granularity on the palate make this a sure bet. The flavours ebb and flow on the long finish – just sit back and savour… Fermented in barrel with eight months lees contact, a little of the Roussanne being aged in new oak barrels. Michel says that in Burgundian terms, this would be a Pouilly-Fuissé... 13.5% abv.

This comes from the big, rounded galets pebbles of the Gard. It is all destemmed. 70% Grenache (60 years old) and 30% Syrah (30 years old). Deep, bright ruby colour. Aromas of rich raspberry fruit, violet and liquorice. The palate is juicy and succulent, warming blueberry and raspberry tarte flavours framed by supple tannins. Astonishingly good at this price. This spends 6 months ageing in concrete tanks. 14.5% abv, totally integrated.

This is the wine previously known as Guy Louis. This all comes from declassified cru holdings. It comes from various southern Rhône villages, including Rasteau, Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise, with the majority from Lirac, on the western side of the Rhône. 70% Grenache (50+ years old), 20% Syrah (40+ years old, from Rasteau) and 10% Mourvèdre (30-40 years old), all farmed organically. One third whole bunches were used, as usual. Brightly red berried and peppery on the nose. The palate is juicy and attractive, with dense, ripe blackberry fruit, the supple tannins providing impressive structure. Give this a couple of years in bottle to meld. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels, then for eight months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv.

This is a 100% whole bunch vinification of Grenache, from 70 year-old vines on the border of the Châteauneuf appellation. A lovely sappy nose of sweet spices and spherical raspberry fruit. Herby tension on the palate adds lift to the intense red berry flavours. Lingering pepper and garrigue on the finish. Quite simply brilliant value southern Rhône Grenache. This is all bottled in magnums (just 150 of them). It spends eight months in two- and three-year-old barrels, then ten months in foudres. Lovely delicacy this year. 14.5% abv.

70% Grenache (the vines of which are a magnificent 80 years old), 10% Syrah and 20% Mourvèdre (both ‘only’ 40 years old). A third of the grapes were left un-destemmed and fermented as whole bunches. The warmest place in the southern Rhône, Rasteau can also be wonderfully ephemeral, flirtatious even. Bastien: “I like Rasteau in 2020, as there is less alcohol and density than usual.” The oldest vines here were planted in 1921, so are centenarians this year. This is a charming, elegant wine, which is hard to pull off from such a warm part of the valley. Part comes from a site called La Montagne, at 300 metres of elevation. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels, then for a further 10 in foudres. 14.5% abv.

If Rasteau is flirtatious, Vacqueyras is usually earthier and more leathered – it is the driest part of the southern Rhône. Half of this wine comes from sandy soils which, in combination with cool aspects, lend a silkiness to the tannins. 70% Grenache (over 60 years old), 20% Mourvèdre and 10% Syrah (both 40 years old). 50% whole bunch fermented (the whole bunches are of Grenache, the other varieties being destemmed). The nose is raisined and bitter cherried, with plum and dense blueberry fruit. The palate is pure and refined, those sandy soils coming into play on the finish. This always needs long élevage and bottle ageing. 14.5% abv.

This old vine Gigondas cuvée comes from five plots in Gigondas, at around 400 metres of altitude, from the Dentelles foothills. 90% Grenache, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, ranging from 40 to over 100 years old. 75% whole-bunch fermented. Dark and chocolatey on the nose, leading into a palate of deft violets and pretty raspberry fruit. There is more sucrosity on the palate, with a sappy freshness which lifts the dense dark berry fruit. The tannins are refined and just shy of silky. Brimming with southern Rhône personality. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels and then 12 months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv.

“The Bordeaux of the South”, as it is known in the Rhône, this comes from clay-limestone soils. 95% Mourvèdre and 5% Grenache, over 50 years old. This is the last red tasted in the Tardieu-Laurent line-up – and there is a reason for that… Glass-staining ruby (almost black!) colour, this is always a big wine. Gamey and dark chocolatey on the nose. The palate is leathered, evoking wizened vines and Mediterranean tapenade. Aged for 24 months in one- and two-year-old barrels. 14% abv.

This comes from five plots in Châteauneuf and is 75% Grenache, 10% Syrah, 10% Mourvèdre and 5% Cinsault. The Grenache and Cinsault is 60 to 80 years old, the Syrah 40 years old. Half whole-bunch vinified. This was all picked after the rain, lending a softness to the tannins and an ease. A hot earthy nose, leading into a palate of violets and peonies, very upbeat and early drinking in style. 14.5% abv. This over-delivers for its level – a pick.

This comes from five old-vine plots. It is 80% Grenache (80-100 years old), 15% Mourvèdre (60 years old) and 5% Syrah (50 years old). There are 30cm of galets roulets, then red clay. A half whole-bunch vinified. A little reductive smokiness, pointing to a long-ageing wine. The palate is succulent and red cherried, a powerful core of bright raspberry and plushly fruit-coated tannins (which, according to Bastien, is the mark of the 2020 vintage). Really impressive. Aged for 12 months in one year-old barrels, then for 12 months in foudres. 14.5% abv. 

Made from century-old vines at the base of La Crau on sandy soils, this is effectively a Grenache-only Châteauneuf (with 1% “other varieties”). 100% whole-bunch fermented. Sweet and succulent, soft and herb-infused, with a gently coffeed edge. There is a lightness of touch here, an aromatic airiness which takes this up and beyond. Wonderful. A year in old oak barrels and then a further year in foudre. 14.5% abv.

80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, from three different sites, with an average age of over 50 years. Pastry and white peach on the nose, fine and precise. The palate is chalky and mineral, with pear and green citrus fruit. This spends 10 months in a combination of new and used barrels, then is very lightly filtered, with no fining. 14% abv.

85% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne, from three different sites, aged 30-40 years. This is the second vintage of this wine. Very pure aromas of orange rind, apricot and quince. The palate is lean and acid-driven, cool and focused. More ‘intellectual’ maybe – a wonderful wine, with a salty seam on the finish. Aged for 10 months in a mixture of new and used barrels. 14% abv.

Bastien Tardieu calls this “the little Hermitage Blanc”. 50% Marsanne (50-100 years old) and 50% Roussanne (over 40 years old). Rich and smoky on the nose, this has that quintessential bacon fat and a salty granularity. A decadent yet fresh wine, appealing to those looking for something on the full-bodied side which will nonetheless drink beautifully on its own. Aged for 12 months in a mixture of new and one-year-old barrels. 14% abv.

100% Viognier, from six plots in Condrieu. A cooler, more focussed year for Condrieu, this is a crowd-pleasing vintage, energetic and perfumed (apricots and blossom), without the full-on waxiness and pungency of some years. Very good. Aged for 10 months in new and one year-old barrels. 13.5% abv.

80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. The Marsanne is over 50 years old, whilst the Roussanne is over 40 years old. Best drunk at 8-10 years of age, according to Michel. Hay and cedar on the nose, this promises to be textural and savoury. All about the texture rather than the fruit, with tannins shaping the substantial palate, channelling the white peach and apricot flavours. Patience required but it will be worth the wait. Fermented in barrel, then transferred to Stockinger Austrian foudres (which the Tardieus are using more and more). 14% abv.

100% Syrah and Serine, Serine being an ancient clone of Syrah, the berries of which are more oval-shaped and less deeply pigmented than Syrah. The former vines are over 60 years old, the latter 100-120+ years old! Two thirds whole bunch fermentation. A peppery, darkly berried nose leads into an aromatic palate of pure blackberry fruit. “More Chambolle”, in Bastien’s words. Supple tannins and some sappy crunch. Violet aromas linger on the finish. Aged for a year in barrel, then eight months in foudre. 13.5% abv.

100% Syrah, from 60-year-old vines. There is one third whole bunch fermentation here. This comes from four sites: Larnage, Battis, Gervans and Habrard. A truly lovely nose of raspberry, black pepper, blackcurrant and sous-bois. The palate is zesty and light on its feet, white peppery spice and red berries. Following fermentation, it is aged for 12 months in new and one-year-old barrels, then spends six months in foudres. 13.5% abv.

Cornas is known as the “vin noir”, and you can see why as soon as you pour it – inky and glass-staining, with a bright purple rim. 100% Syrah/Serine, 60 to 100 years old. It comes from three plots, on typical granite soils. A half whole bunch fermentation. This is more refined on the nose than in some years, rendered as peppery and darkly berried, with primary fruited verve. The palate is more elegant than I was expecting, with an attractive juiciness. Aged for 24 months in new and one year-old barrels. 14% abv.

If Côte-Rôtie and Hermitage are the go-to northern Rhône appellations, Cornas is the insider’s choice. 100% Serine/Syrah, ranging from 80 to over 100 years old. 75% whole bunch fermented. This comes from mid-slope plots of Patou, a total of 5ha. Intensely perfumed – blueberries, roses and liquorice. The palate is pliant and giving on the attack, a fine tannic grip emerging on the mid-palate. Superlative texture and rich, harmonious fruit, with a deft balancing structure and a long, focused finish. Aged for 24 months in new and one year-old barrels. 

From the Côte Brune, this is the fourth vintage of this wine, which is sourced from the prime vineyards of Landonne, Lancement and Chavaroche. The vines here are 60-70 years old on average. 100% whole bunch vinified. The aromas here are a classic Côte-Rôtie mix of deft perfume and the animal sauvage. Blackberry fruit lifted by orange zest and spices, white pepper and tangerine – cool and precise, delicate. The tannins are filigree and beautifully defined. I can’t imagine anyone not falling in love with this wine. 13.5% abv.

This comes from five plots, including the prestigious Le Meal. 100% Serine and Syrah, from 60-year-old vines. Two thirds whole bunch vinification. Dark berries, pepper, leather and bacon fat aromas – the nose is firmly in the savoury camp, chiming with Bastien’s description of this as the “most Mediterranean wine of the north.” A plush red-fruited palate is the perfect counterpoint, zesty orange rind lifting the fruit flavours and lending a winning approachability to what is undeniably a full-bodied, age-worthy wine. Aged for a year in new and one year-old barrels, then for another year in foudres. One of the pinnacles of the line-up. 14% abv.