WEINGUT A. CHRISTMANN

In many ways, this is Steffen and Sophie’s calling card, their ‘Estate Riesling’. Flinty, struck-rock minerality and aromas of white peaches, grapefruit and lime zest. The palate has a core of taut, lemony acidity around which unwind pear and orange zest flavours. A mere 11.5% abv, underscoring this wine’s fabulous drinkability.

This is an Ortswein (the level below Erste Lage, equivalent to a village Burgundy), picked in the second and third passes through the vineyard. It is produced from two young sites in Gimmeldingen: Kapellenberg and Biengarten, both Erste Lagen. Flinty mineral aromas, with ripe pear fruit. The palate is steely and acidity-driven on the entry, opening onto a mid-palate of orchard fruits, tinned peaches and white flower perfume which lingers on the long finish. 12% abv. 

This Königsbach Riesling Ortswein comes from the younger vines of Christmann's Grosse Lage monopole, IDIG. Pale lemon-gold colour. Flinty and seashell-mineral aromas, with apricot and honeysuckle. The palate is nicely poised between rigour and flesh, lime zest and slaty minerality meeting generous white peach fruit. A line of steely acidity runs through the palate, making for a wine of real ageing potential. 12.5% abv. 

Kapellenberg, in Gimmeldingen, forms the southeast slope of a vineyard situated high in the foothills of the Haardt mountain range. A chapel below the vineyard gives the site its name. Reticent white peach and apple aromas, with stony minerality. The palate is juicy on the attack, wet-stone minerality soon asserting itself and providing impressive structure, fleshing out somewhat on the mid-palate, whilst remaining cool and herbal. Still embryonic, with a long, taut finish. 12% abv. 

As Steffen Christmann related, “we have decided this year to use the cooler, water-bearing sites Hausbrunnen and Quelle, as well as the Spiess and our Grosse Lage Hofstück together as Ruppertsberger Reiterpfad Erstes Gewächs. Lemon and sherbet aromas, with slaty minerality. Pliant citrus and pear fruit on the attack, opening onto apricot and orange blossom on the mid-palate. The more generous and approachable of the two Erste Lagen, this is the pick for earlier drinking. 12.5% abv. 

Meerspinne is a Grosse Lage sub-plot of Mandelgarten, dating back to 1456. In those days, this site was known for its outstanding yield potential; today it is considered the best plot in Gimmeldingen. Fine white peach aromas with green citrus and a honeyed intensity. A hewn sense of dry extract on the attack, opening onto ripe fleshy pear and stone-fruits on the mid-palate, the stony mineral texture reappearing on the finish. 12.5% abv. 

The Grosse Lage IDIG, a Christmann monopole, is one of the most highly-rated sites in the Pfalz. As we have come to expect, this is a supremely complete wine – aromatically it is poised between slaty rigour and fleshy generosity. The palate has a nervy tension, which opens onto a salty, stony-mineral driven mid-palate of lemon, gooseberry, pear and peach. A steely arc of acidity will need patience but promises brilliantly for the future. 12.5% abv. 

Ölberg, in the oldest part of the Gewann Hart, has previously produced the fruit for Christmann’s auction wine, Kapelle. Described by Steffen Cristmann as “a fantastic wine – slightly reductive, long, and cool.” Honeysuckle and riper white peach aromas, very pure and stony-mineral. The palate’s succulent stone-fruit is offset by a brittle slaty minerality, finishing salty and precise, with lingering textural, grippy extract. Were it not for that lovely fruit, I’d call this an intellectual wine – but as it is, it’s just impressively complete. 12.5% abv. 

Yellow-hued, slaty-mineral and apricot aromas. The fleshier aspect comes through on the palate’s delectably succulent white peaches and juicy pears. The back-palate is tangy and bitter, a saline bite making for a long, shapely finish, once again driven onwards by that high-line of steely acidity. Or as Steffen puts it, “Mineral and herbaceous, with dark depth, it is a really great wine.” 12.5% abv. 

This comes from vineyards around Gimmeldingen. Pretty raspberry and rose aromas, with flinty minerality and a lick of cedar. The palate is fresh and vivaciously red-berried, medium bodied and with an orange zest lift. 12.5% abv. 15% whole-bunch fermentation, with one year in barrel. Burgundy shaped bottles have been used for the Pinot Noirs for the first time this vintage.

This is voluntarily declassified as a Gutswein, although it comes from the earlier ripening grapes of an old-vined Erste Lage site in Kapellenberg. Delicate, ripe raspberries and dark rocky mineral aromas lead into a palate of succulent wild strawberry fruit, with a core of rich red cherry and chocolate, all framed by fine, supple tannins. 15% whole-bunch fermentation, 12.5% abv. 

This Erste Lage vineyard consists of steep terraces in the Haardt hills between Gimmeldingen and Königsbach. The site is protected from cold winds by a small hollow in the hillside. Ripe, raspberry-fruited aromas, with roses, cedar and sweet spices. The palate is joyous, with succulent red berries, exotic spices and a sappy, focused finish. The best vintage of this wine I have tasted. 25% whole-bunch fermentation, 12.5% abv. 

Ölberg is a high, sloping Erste Lage site in Königsbach, recognised as one of the best in Pfalz. It benefits from morning sun and late afternoon shade. As at IDIG, limestone marl and the brown earth known as ‘terra fusca’ predominate, with red sandstone. Fine dark-berried aromas with cedar and tea leaf spices. The palate is nimble on the attack, cool red and black berries, with sappy spices on the medium-bodied mid-palate, then a long, saline, focused finish, framed by very fine tannins. This is really good – note to self to buy some! 25% whole-bunch fermentation, 12.5% abv.

The Grosse Lage IDIG vineyard is one of the most highly-rated sites in the Palatine region and is a Christmann monopole, making this the flagship holding of the estate. In simple terms, Grosses Gewächs, or GG, is comparable to Grand Cru status in Burgundy. Pale ruby colour. Gorgeous rose petal and whole-bunch exotic spice aromas, we could very easily be in Burgundy here. The palate is supple and pliant, with juicy raspberry and tea leaf spice flavours and a seductive weightlessness, leaving a trail of perfume in its wake. Such fine, melting tannins, with a frisson of salinity on the finish lending focus. 25% whole-bunch fermentation, 12.5% abv.