There is a certain sunny energy to wines from this special, south-facing slope. In fact, in many ways Bonneveaux is a perfect all-round white Burgundy, a ‘goldilocks’ of a wine, from every angle ‘just right’: the fruit just ripe and expressive enough, the palate creamy but lightly so; the oak in judicious measure. This year’s Bonneveaux turns the volume up a bit but retains its perfect proportion. Richer and more concentrated but no less dynamic, its refreshing acidities balance creamy comice pear. The finish lingers long, laced with jasmine scent. Goldilocks never had it so good.