Domaine Pierre Labet

Bourgogne Chardonnay Vieilles Vignes Domaine Pierre Labet 2014

This presents lemongrass and green apple on the nose. François does not believe in stirring, the fermentation process itself creating natural movement. This is something of a no-brainer - verging on decadence – but with just enough acidic backbone adding refreshment

The Bourgogne Chardonnay comes from two plots in Chorey-lès-Beaune. The nose here shows ripe white peach and a little green melon, with a gratifying bite of flinty minerality. The palate is crunchy and precise – that all-important acidity – with a grippiness and a saltiness to the finish and an old vine fruit intensity which prevails throughout a long, poised finish.

2017, first and foremost, presents us with a delicious expression of Pinot Noir. François likes to stress that this wine is about the grape rather than the terroir as it comes from three different plots. They are all in Chorey-lès-Beaune, which has more clay than the Côte, being located at the beginning of the plain. Brightly red fruited, with a nice crunchiness of fruit and very crisp acidity. The Labet whole-bunch treatment adds a lovely upbeat approachability. 10% new oak, gives a roundness of texture - tremendous value.

As the name "dessus" suggests, this lies above Les Marconnets, on the border with Savigny and at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. Green-gold in colour, this hints at lemon puff biscuits, citrus drizzle cake and tarte tatin. The palate follows with green apples, stony minerals and buttered shortcake – lovely balance. The finish is lively, upbeat and focused with terrific energy – a fine flag-bearer.

This plot lies above Les Marconnets, on the border with Savigny and at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. There is something excitingly candied here, a touch of sherbet, a whiff of freshly baked pastry and a bready density from a little extended lees contact. Verve, energy and body are the hallmarks of this wine. Although this hits the ground running, it makes for rather delightful older bones

2017, first and foremost, presents us with a delicious expression of Pinot Noir. Marconnets is located in the northern part of Beaune, on the boundary with Savigny. A bright nose of raspberry and red cherry, really vibrant, with a lot of exotic spice and a little lactic volume. The palate is actually more precise and mineral-driven than the nose suggests; François pointed out that his trademark 100% whole bunch vinification gives a saltiness to the wines also, making you salivate. Fabulous energy. 20% new oak adds texture

As the name "Dessus" suggests, this lies above Les Marconnets on the border with Savigny and at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. Lovely ripe white peach and struck-match flintiness on the nose, with a hint of toasty new oak. The palate is generous and quite fleshy on the attack, becoming more saline and focused as the palate progresses, finishing with a sense of grip. Vinified for 13 months, in 350 litre barrels, 50% new.

Coucherias is located in the middle of Beaune, above Teurons. Planted in 1964, it is a warm, south-facing site, high on the slope. This is very aromatically expressive on the nose, with a nettly, tea-leaf spice. The palate is precise and poised, with bright raspberries and tomato leaf, a little peppery spice and remarkably fine tannins. 25% new oak.

This plot lies above Les Marconnets, on the border with Savigny and at the beginning of the wooded Montagne de Beaune. There is something excitingly candied here, a touch of sherbet, a whiff of freshly baked pastry and a bready density from a little extended lees contact. Verve, energy and body are the hallmarks of this wine. Although this hits the ground running, it makes for rather delightful older bones

François Labet and his team have produced a characterful 2014 Coucherias - a fine standard bearer for the vineyards around Beaune. This offers a lifted, bitter cherry nose, creaminess and slightly raisined richness. It presents rather juicy, deep fruit, with saline hints on the palate, a touch of coffee and some smoky, savoury layers on the finish.

Beaune Clos du Dessus des Marconnets Domaine Pierre Labet 2015