Last week over fifty of our customers gathered at the Century Club in Shaftesbury Avenue for a tour de force from Olivier Leflaive, winemaker, négociant and Burgundian institution. Not only does Olivier produce some of the most accessible fine white Burgundy, he is also prolific, with 96 cuvées in production last time he checked.
The London weather was, if not actually sub-tropical, certainly rather warm and muggy, so a glass of Olivier’s Bourgogne Rosé Cuvée Margoton 2009 was just the ticket to lower body temperatures and focus minds. First up, steamed sea trout, accompanied by Auxey-Duresses La Macabrée 2009 and Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly 2009, both from magnum. Whilst the Saint-Aubin was clearly the more accomplished wine, the Auxey blossomed when paired with the trout, complementing the accompanying herbs and basil butter.
Now into the Côte d’Or heartland. A garden pea risotto with truffles and pea shoots was paired with Olivier’s Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts 2008 and his Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot 2008. Both 2008s were showing very well and preferences on my table were split down the middle. I love the pared-down elegance of Puligny and the 2008 Referts is in a great place at the moment, with a bit of development and a little matchstick reduction adding complexity.
By the time the chicken, ceps and rosti potato were served, all but the most die-hard Chardonnay lovers were looking forward to a drop of red. Olivier’s little-seen Volnay 2009 did an admirable job, lending the tannic grip we’d been craving. This is an open, friendly wine of red berries and earthy minerality. The Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots 2009 completed the hallowed trio of Côte de Beaune white villages (Puligny, Chassagne, Meursault) and was succulent and bright, a heart-on-sleeve 2009, but with structure, minerality and depth. Over cheese we then had a chance to see the same wine with 3 years’ more age – Meursault 1er Cru Les Poruzots 2006 – more amber in colour, more profound on the nose and palate and a nice culmination to a wonderfully relaxed and informative evening. Merci Olivier, until next year…