Domaine Georges Glantenay En Primeur 2021

Sarah and Guillaume’s parents bought this 0.4 hectareplot in 2008. It is located just above Santenots. After replanting it to Chardonnay, the first proper vintage was 2015. Flinty-mineral, with a smoky bacon aspect from the new oak (which will integrate), and then a well-defined, salty finish. Aged in one standard 228L new oak barrel. 

This is made from eight different plots in the village of Volnay, totalling two hectares with the Vieilles Vignes cuvée (the next wine). These are 30-60 year old vines, so are by no means young, but the idea here is drinkability. A demonstratrive, fruity Volnay of wild strawberries, raspberries, peppery spices and cedar. 20% new oak.

This is a selection of the oldest vines (64-92 years old, according to Sarah Glantenay) from four plots of the domaine’s two hectares of village Volnay. Rich raspberry fruit, with a zesty orange rind flair and fine, structured tannins. A step up in intensity and energy. 20% new oak.

Adjacent to Santenots, the domaine’s 0.35 hectare holding in La Robardelle is planted north-south, meaning the vines get sun exposure all day long. This is a new wine this year, which Sarah and Guillaume have just recovered from a long term lease. It was harvested later than the other Volnay premiers crus. Deep, powerful dark berry aromas, reflecting the clay-heavy soils. The palate offers a rounder, plumper expression of Volnay – impressive in 2021. 30% new oak. 

This is a 0.4 hectare plot of 65 year-old vines in the centre of the village, just below Champans, only half of which is currently in production. The first vintage was 2017. The name is thought to come from ronce, meaning blackberry. Ronceret is the most accessible and early-drinking of the premiers crus and tends to be the first vineyard picked. Delicate aromas of blackberry, with pretty dark fruit on the palate and fresh, lifted acidity. Dark perfume lingers on the finish. Other than the currently-firm tannins, you could happily drink this now. 30% new oak. 

The evocatively named Brouillards – fogs in French – is actually named after its first owner. At 1.10 hectares, it is the domaine’s largest premier cruand the flagship wine. It lies on the Pommard side of the village, to the north of Mitans and over the road from Les Angles. There are more stones in the limestone-rich soil here. Spherical raspberries, with chalky, textured minerality and saltiness on the finish. Lovely wine. 35% new oak. 

This comes from four plots within the village of Pommard, including Les Riottes, which is 91 years old and the newest addition, the 25 year-old Les Cras. Darkly, ripely fruit-driven, with fresh acidity and shapely, fruit-coated tannins. There is a particular charm to Pommard in 2021 and this wine captures it perfectly. 

The premier cru  Combes Dessus is on the border of Pommard and Volnay. The domaine has 0.3 hectares here. This was one of the first cuvées reintroduced to the domaine in 2015 by Sarah and Guillaume. Juicy and supple, it is a demonstrative wine of flesh and breadth. The tannins are bold and lushly fruit-coated. Forthright and carnal! 30% new oak. 

A steeply-sloping 0.35 hectare plot, on the Volnay side of the village. Along with Épenots, Rugiens ranks among the best terroirs of Pommard; some feel it is worthy of grand cru status. The name Rugiens derives from ‘ferruginous’, reflecting its red, iron-rich soil. The vinification intégrale method of fermenting whole (destemmed) berries in large 500L oak barrels was used here for the first time in 2021. Struck rock and stony mineral aromas lead into a palate of dark berries, blood orange and granular salty definition. Around 50% new oak, which is entirely integrated. 

We now move to the Côte de Nuits and Chambolle-Musigny. Les Feusselottes sits in the middle of the appellation, just above Les Charmes. The first vintage made from the domaine’s tiny 0.08 hectare plot here was 2017. This is another wine made using vinification intégrale (whole berry fermentation in barrel), which can bring out an extra layer of elegance. Peonies, violets and roses – wonderfully aromatic, with cedary spices. The palate marries the airborne elegance of Chambolle with a forthright tannic structure, which will integrate. Just one (new oak) barrel of 300L was made this year.