This bears the classic Doctor label, which the estate has used since 1901. Amber-gold in colour. Citrus rind and apricot, with wet-stone mineral notes and slate on the nose. The palate is intense and powerful, with flavours of fresh lime, quince, yellow flowers and slaty minerality. This is all about the flow, in Sofia Thanisch’s words. I would only add that it’s also about the length – it just goes on and on, a seemingly endless wine of supreme refinement and nuance.