a lustrous plum-cherry. The nose is something of a paradox, with lovely old vine intensity (45 years) somewhat dominated by oak at this juncture. The palate is more balanced, with an approach which is richly textured, rounded and mineral, yet with gripping tannins in support. Earthy, structured, dark and brooding, this wine deserves patience, although something of its future potential is clear in the finish, which is protracted, layered and complex.