Domaine de L'Arlot En Primeur 2020

This comes from the vines behind the domaine (beside the swimming pool!), planted in 1992 and 1993. It is a voluntarily declassified premier cru although it could form part of Clos de l’Arlot Blanc. Grown on white limestone, which is evident on the chalky mineral palate. It is fermented in barrel before being aged in just under 20% new oak. Bright, white peach aromas. Rich and open on the palate, with white flowers and a little honeysuckle.

There are two hectares of Chardonnay planted in Clos de l’Arlot. This is from grapes grown on the steeply sloping amphitheatre, a site which provides structure. Pink limestone, which contributes to this wine’s exuberant, broad, long-ageing character. 20% new oak. Flinty mineral, struck match aromas. The palate is gratifyingly dense, with almost chewable apricot and pineapple, a steely core of balancing acidity and a characteristic phenolic creaminess.

This comes from 1.5 hectares of vines in Comblanchien, on the plain. Lovely whole-bunch spice on the nose here, with bright raspberry fruit. The palate is very pure, red berried and with a creamy density, with a supple fruit-coating to the tannins. 35% whole-bunch fermentation. 14% abv.

This plot is located inside the Clos de l’Arlot vineyard, at the top of the slope. It is named after the little passageway at the top of the vineyard, from which you can hear birdsong. The vines are around 20 years old. It is the wine that used to be called Le Petit Arlot, which has now reached an age to be worthy of premier cru status. Deep, bright ruby. Dark berry aromas, intense and liquorice-laden, with bitter chocolate. The palate is assertively grippy, but the tannins are fine and work beautifully with the redcurrant. All destemmed.

There are two hectares of Pinot Noir grapes here, alongside the two of white, planted on marl. Clos de l’Arlot is adjacent to Domaine Mugnier’s Clos de la Maréchale, both having prominent signage which you pass on the Route Nationale. Blackberries, very pure, with whole bunch sappiness and spice – from which, as Geraldine Godot says, comes a sense of bitterness. Salty minerality too. 50% new oak. 69% whole-bunch fermentation.

Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is a 7.2 hectare monopole, owned exclusively by Domaine de l’Arlot. Whilst Clos de l’Arlot is from Prémeaux, this is a ‘proper’ Nuits-Saint-Georges – more deeply coloured and more immediately expressive, versus the more ephemeral style of Prémeaux. Darker, forest fruit aromas, with bitter cherry and dark chocolate. The palate is powerful and energetic, with liquorice and firm, grippy tannins, and a sweetness of ripe black fruit. 45% whole-bunch fermentation, 50% new oak.

Raspberries, wild strawberries, incense and tea leaf spice – this is as beautiful aromatically as you would hope. The palate is cool and focused on the entry, lots of matter here, which is currently tightly packed but slowly unwinds to reveal the most charming red-fruited perfume, with rose petals. 66% whole-bunch fermentation. 10 barrels were made.