THE DOMAINE
Domaine de l’Arlot is a 14 hectare property in the commune of Prémeaux, just south of the town of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Over the past seven years, Technical Director Géraldine Godot has established herself as a name to watch in the region.
AXA Millésimes, the wine division of the insurance company, owns the Domaine. Their portfolio also includes Quinta do Noval in Portugal’s Douro Valley and Bordeaux Châteaux Pichon-Baron of Pauillac, Petit-Village of Pomerol and Suduiraut of Sauternes.
Jean-Pierre de Smet ran the Domaine for almost two decades before handing control to Christian Seely in 2007. The wines were then made by Olivier Leriche (2007-2011), Jacques Devauges (2011-2014) and since 2014, by Géraldine Godot who has established herself as a name to watch in the region since becoming Technical Director.
The flagship wines are the red and white from Clos de l’Arlot and the red Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges, both Nuits-Saint-Georges 1ers Crus Monopoles. Clos de l’Arlot is adjacent to the domaine itself, in Prémeaux-Prissey, while Clos des Forêts is further north.
Maximum new oak use at the domaine is now 40%. There was no pigeage (pumping-down) for the Pinot Noir this year. All the reds had a pre-fermentation cold soak for 5-6 days, with pumping-over every morning, for the first 10 days of vinification. Bottling of the 2021s started in the first week of December 2022, with some wines due to be bottled later (see the individual notes).
History
Jean-Charles Vienot inherited the Domaine in the small village of Prémeaux at the end of the 18th century
At the end of the 18th century, Jean-Charles Vienot inherited the Domaine in the small village of Prémeaux, which had previously been in the hands of a long line of his ancestors.
During his time here, Jean-Charles built a wall around the property and its vines, thus creating Clos de l ’Arlot, which today is a Nuits-Saint-Georges 1er Cru.
In 1891 the Vienots finally sold the Domaine to Jules Belin, a wine merchant who expanded the estate by purchasing Clos des Forêts Saint Georges and Clos du Chapeau. Belin’s heirs later sold the buildings and vineyards to AXA Millésimesin 1987.
AXA Millésimes has since acquired two plots in Vosne Romanée: Vosne Romanée 1er Cru Les Suchots and Romanée Saint Vivant Grand Cru.
VINTAGE
THE 2022 VINTAGE, in the words of Géraldine Godot, Technical Director
THE CHANGING SEASONS
Despite negative temperatures in January and mid-February, the winter was milder and drier than average. The very first green shoots in early sectors on the Côte appeared in early April, just before the arrival of a cold air mass from the north which caused temperatures to drop throughout Burgundy. Four nights of frost between 3rd and 11th April made us fear the worst.
Fortunately, at the time, the Arlot vines were still at the budbreak stage, so damage was avoided in our vineyard with the exception of a few early sectors on the Côte.
In mid-April, spring-like conditions set in, causing rapid growth of vegetation. The first flowers were observed in the earliest-developing sectors of Chardonnay on 20th May. Flowering was rapid due to the warm, dry conditions. Clusters of grapes started to become visible, holding the promise of a generous harvest.
This exceptionally warm spring changed 2022 dramatically: after a normal budbreak the pace accelerated, making us think the vintage would be one of the earliest on record.
The grapes developed in sunny weather with high temperatures. Rain came at the right time, falling over the entire Burgundy region from 21st to 25th June. It provided valuable water at a crucial stage for the vines.
The summer was marked by a succession of heatwaves. On the positive side, there was no disease. The consequences of the drought were limited, as our vines are fairly resistant to water stress. Ripening took place in scorching temperatures.
HARVEST
Ripeness checks were stepped up in mid-August. Sugar levels developed well, although in the first half of August we observed that they were less pronounced in certain vines, indicating a blockage. Fortunately, showery weather arrived in mid-August, as we prepared for the harvest, and its beneficial effect was immediately felt.
This vintage turned out not to be the earliest on record. The harvest started slowly on 26th August and ended on 31st August. The Hautes Côtes plot was harvested on 10th September. The weather was good and the volumes unhoped for! The estate’s average yield was 40 hectolitres per hectare.
Despite the heat of 2022, the wines are typical of Burgundy.
THE WINES
After the frost of 2021 and the continual low volumes in recent years, the 2022 vintage was a very pleasant surprise, combining both quality and quantity. Beautifully well-balanced and excellent grape health with good juice extraction: you couldn’t ask for more.
CÔTE DE NUITS-VILLAGES CLOS DU CHAPEAU MONOPOLE
Clos du Chapeau is a monopole, consisting of 1.5 hectares of vines in Comblanchien, on the plain. Creamy wild strawberry aromas that are fleshy and ripe with a palate which is brightly red berried, with vibrant acidity and a hint of sous bois, framed by fine chalky tannins. Bottled at the beginning of September, before the 2023 harvest – this was the only wine already bottled when we tasted in autumn 2023. 100% destemmed again in 2022.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU MONT DES OISEAUX
This white limestone plot is located inside Clos de l ’Arlot, at the top of the slope. It is named after the little passage way at the top of the vineyard, from which you can hear bird song. The vines are around 20 years old. Previously called Le Petit Arlot and voluntarily declassified, the vines have now reached an age worthy of premier cru status. Pretty bright red berry aromas, leading into a fresh palate of creamy raspberry fruit and chalky, fruit-coated tannins. This will be bottled in March-April 2024. 100% destemmed with 35% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025–2033
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU CLOS DE L'ARLOT MONOPOLE
There are two hectares of Pinot Noir grapes here,alongside the two of white, planted on marl and free-draining pink limestone. Clos de l’Arlot is just north of Domaine Mugnier’s Clos de la Maréchale, in Prémeaux-Prissey, at the southern end of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Fine, pure raspberry fruit aromas, with taffeta rose petal perfume. The palate is intensely chalky and mineral, the most marked limestone minerality I can recall tasting here. A nice fruit sucrosity coats the fine tannins. As Geraldine says, Clos de l’Arlot is always easier than Clos des Forets to taste when young. 100% destemmed with 40% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2025–2033+
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES 1ER CRU CLOS DES FORÊTS SAINT-GEORGES MONOPOLE
Clos des Forêts Saint-Georges is a 7.2 hectare monopole, owned exclusively by Domaine de l ’Arlot. Whilst Clos de l ’Arlot is in Prémeaux, this is the centre of the Nuits-Saint-Georges appellation, further north, with more clay-based soils. It is more deeply coloured and more immediately expressive, versus the more ephemeral style of Prémeaux. Expressive sweet raspberry and wild strawberry aromas give way to a focused and brightly red-fruited palate on the entry before opening onto a mid-palate of pliant red cherry and berry fruit, complemented by patisserie notes and fine chalky tannins. The finish is pithy with a saline focus.100% destemmed with 40% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2027–2039
VOSNE-ROMANÉE 1ER CRU LES SUCHOTS
The Domaine has 0.85ha of Suchots, just opposite Domaine de la Romanée-Conti’s plot of Richebourg. Dried roses with a hint of cream and crystalline raspberry-fruited nose. The palate is pure and tensile on the attack, fleshing out on the mid-palate, whilst remaining totally pure with a lick of sweetness and framed by very fine, chalky tannins. Just 19 barrels were produced; the maximum possible. 100% destemmed with 40% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2026–2036
NUITS-SAINT-GEORGES BLANC 1ER CRU CLOS DE L’ARLOT MONOPOLE
There are two hectares of Chardonnay planted in Clos de l’ Arlot, the domaine’s iconic, steeply sloping amphitheatre. The pink Prémeaux limestone contributes to this wine’s exuberant, broad, long-ageing character. Since the 2021 vintage, Clos de L’ Arlot Blanc has included the vines behind the Domaine that were previously destined for the ‘La Gerbotte’ cuvée. Exuding green melon, white peach and lime zest – a wine of flair and pithy verve. The palate finishes bitter, salty and focused. Fermented in tank, then transferred to barrel by gravity. Bottling will be in the second week of December. 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029