INTRODUCTION
We owe thanks to our friend and Puligny-Montrachet supplier François Carillon for introducing us to his cousin, Jean-Marc Pillot, in January 2020.
Jean-Marc has worked at the estate since 1985 and has managed it since 1991. He has implemented several changes such as the construction of new facilities and has expanded the number of vineyards. He has also reduced the use of new oak to mostly utilize “3-year-old” barrels for a lower average of new oak (around 10%). His son, Antonin has now joined him and helps with production.
We immediately loved the lean, fresh and complex style of Jean-Marc’s wines. From the nearly 15 hectares of vineyards, the production of white wine is still dominant, although almost half the holdings are planted with Pinot Noir, which is unusual in Chassagne-Montrachet.
The vines in most parcels are between 25 and 50 years old but can reach 90 years of age in some premiers crus of Chassagne-Montrachet.
Just over two years after first meeting Jean-Marc in Hong Kong, we are delighted to put our first offer in front of you. We are extremely happy to be able to do so. We fell in love with the wines and the man instantly and we look forward to drinking these with you in a not-so-distant future. Add them to your collection now, they are real gems.
THE 2020 VINTAGE
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot has its roots deeply planted in Chassagne, making some outstanding Chassagne-Montrachets, both red and white, at both village and premier cru levels.
Antonin, Jean-Marc’s son, has worked at the domaine since 2019, following studies in all aspects of the wine industry, including sales and marketing. Winemaking is in his blood! He also did a vintage in Tasmania in 2016 and few other postings at other producers in Burgundy, to broaden his horizons.
Antonin described 2020 as an easy-to-handle vintage, in common with other producers. Conditions were ripe – literally – for a high quality crop, although the yields were on the lower side. In Antonin’s words, 2020 resembles 2015, although with fresher acidity, and 2017, with more colour and fruit ripeness – and is better than the latter, he believes.
Harvest started on 21st August with the whites, lasting until the 25th. The reds came in between 25th and 28th August. This was a historically early harvest for the domaine.
The bunches reached the winery in pristine condition. Sugar levels suggested a potential alcohol of 13 to 13.5% (very ‘disciplined’ for modern Burgundy!) The berries were in very good condition. Acidity was at an optimum level, as was ripeness.
The red wines are highly classical in style. The maturity of the tannins, the richness of the aromas and the precision of the acidity are a tell-tale for Antonin of the long ageing potential of this vintage.
In the cellar, the work was also seamless, thanks to the good sanitary conditions of the crop. The white grapes were fermented in oak barrels after pressing. The Pinot Noir spent about 3 weeks in stainless steel tanks for the alcoholic fermentation before being racked to barriques for the élevage.
Winemaking here is adapted to the vintage. For 2020, maceration was on the longer side (up to 20 days). Jean-Marc and Antonin are careful with extraction. They tasted the wines regularly and monitored the position of the cap, doing only soft pigeage. When the cap drops, it means the fermentation is finished. This is because there is no longer sufficient carbon dioxide produced (as a by-product of fermentation) to hold the stems in suspension. This is then the time to rack the juice into barriques and press the chapeau (the cap composed of solid matter which floats at the top of tank).
The oak regime is traditional. The Pillots use about 20-30% of new barriques depending on the vintage and the wine, the aim being to support the wine without obscuring it. It can be problematic for small harvests, when there is only one barrel of certain cuvées, commented Antonin half-jokingly.
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot has its roots deeply planted in Chassagne, making some outstanding Chassagne-Montrachets, both red and white, at both village and premier cru levels. They also buy some grapes, thanks to long-standing contracts with grower-friends, representing about a fifth of the production. Jean-Marc started his négoce activity in 1996 with the Montagny and added some Rully more recently. There are between 1 to 6 pièces (228l barrels) at best per cuvée.
THE WINES
WHITES
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot has its roots deeply planted in Chassagne, making some outstanding Chassagne-Montrachets, both red and white, at both village and premier cru levels. They also buy some grapes, thanks to long-standing contracts with grower-friends, representing about a fifth of the production. Jean-Marc started his négoce activity in 1996 with the Montagny and added some Rully more recently. There are between 1 to 6 pièces (228l barrels) at best per cuvée.
Saint Romain La Périère
A delicate pale lemon colour. White peach and green apple aromas, leading into a taut, white-fruited palate, with a crunchy precision to the finish. The higher elevation of Saint Romain comes through in this wines freshness of acidity and elegance.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2022–2026
Chassagne-Montrachet
This wine, which is a blend of six parcels throughout the village comes from two hectares of Chassagne villages. Flinty, smoky-mineral aromas leading into a palate of white peach fruit and clipped acidity. Highly classical and a benchmark for the village. 20% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2023–2026
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Chenevottes
The first in our trio of premier cru Chassagne-Montrachets offers green apples and beguiling white flower aromas. The crunchy orchard-fruited palate is shot through with steely acidity. Clipped and precise, very fine.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2027
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Macherelles
Here again, there is amplitude and an engaging breadth and expansiveness. The generous palate remains in the white fruit realm, making for an attractive counterpoint of precision. A delectable wine – delicious, frankly!
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2026
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Baudines
A broader, riper expression of the village, this premier cru has ample yellow fruit aromas of nectarine, honey and orange blossom, characters which carry through to the textural, nuanced palate. Impressive.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2027
Chassagne-Montrachet Blanc 1er Cru Morgeot Les Fairendes
A voluptuous wine, as befits its more southerly location. The soil in the upper part, where the Chardonnay is planted, is thin and eroded, stony and rocky, with red iron (cras de fer). Lots of finesse here, aromas of ripe orchard fruits and a freshness redolent of citrus peel. A great early drinking option.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029
Puligny-Montrachet Les Noyers Bret
This plot is fabulously sited, beneath Puligny-Montrachet’s much-loved Enseignères. It is the domaine’s only parcel in Puligny. As we hoped, this is stricter, the fine white peach fruit refreshed by a core of lemony acidity and offset against cedary spices.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2026
REDS
Domaine Jean-Marc Pillot has its roots deeply planted in Chassagne, making some outstanding Chassagne-Montrachets, both red and white, at both village and premier cru levels. They also buy some grapes, thanks to long-standing contracts with grower-friends, representing about a fifth of the production. Jean-Marc started his négoce activity in 1996 with the Montagny and added some Rully more recently. There are between 1 to 6 pièces (228l barrels) at best per cuvée.
Bourgogne Pinot Noir
This is made of 80% domaine-owned fruit, from Chassagne-Montrachet, with some négociant grapes from both Santenay and the Côte de Nuits. A darkly fruited and cosseting Bourgogne Pinot Noir, with flavours of bitter cherries, black forest gateau and chocolate. The palate is substantial for this level of wine, framed by fine tannins.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2022–2025
Chassagne-Montrachet Vieilles Vignes
As the suffix Vieilles Vignes suggests, the domaine’s village Chassagne-Montrachet is rather impressively the product of 50-60 year-old vines. Chocolatey, darkly peppered aromas lead into a palate of intense bitter cherries and forest fruits, those old vines making their presence felt.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2023–2026