Domaine Rossignol-Trapet En Primeur 2021

This is a selection from just over five hectares of 50-85 year old vines, across eight different parcels, with light gravelly soils. Aromas of incense and fine dark minerally spice. The palate opens sappy and elegant, finding a dark-berried drive and energy on the mid-palate, with very fine tannins and chalky minerality. A third whole-bunch fermentation, 15% new oak. This is the domaine’s highest production cuvée: 15-20,000 bottles per year are made.

This 1.2 hectare plot, planted in 1978, is on the high part of Teurons, close to the woods and beside Aux Cras. Stony, iron-rich red soil. The cliff at the top of the slope reflects the sun and, along with the trees, protects the vines, making for early ripening. Dark sappy spice aromas, leading into a palate of cool dark berries and creamy density. Crunchy dark fruit on the finish, framed by fine tannins and ferrous minerality. 15% new oak, with a third whole-bunch vinification.

This comes from a 0.25 hectare plot planted in 1986, just down the slope and across the road from Mazis-Chambertin. Intense red berry aromas, with rose petal perfume. The palate is similarly perfume-infused, combining aromatic delicacy with fine chalky-mineral texture. Around 30% whole-bunch vinification. A third new oak.

Petite Chapelle has a 1.5m deep layer of top-soil and, in Nicolas’ words, is “full of clay”. This is a 0.5 hectare holding. A powerful, fruit-driven nose, reflecting the heavier clay soils here. The palate is similarly fleshy and generous, poised between red and black fruits, with a creamy density at its core. Firm fruit-coated tannins. Wild strawberry aromas linger on the finish. A third whole-bunch vinification and 35% new oak.

One parcel here dates from the 1930s and another was planted after the 1956 frost. True to form, Latricières is the most aromatically expressive of the grands crus, perhapsdue to its breezier, less protected aspect. Blackberries, white pepper and sappy spices on the nose – this is soaring and aromatic. The palate is sinewy, dark and fine, with a herby cohesiveness and wonderful drive. A third whole-bunch vinification. 50% new oak.

The domaine’s Chapelle-Chambertin comes from two parcels – En la Chapelle (planted in the 1960s) and Les Gémeaux (planted in 1924). Both are warm sites, directly below Clos de Bèze, with a mere 50 centimetres of soil above the rock. It is slightly earlier-ripening than the other grands crus. The soil consists of layers of rock, with holes into which the roots can penetrate. Lifted, red-berried aromas, with cedary spice. Supple and pliant raspberry fruit on the palate, with fine tannins and bright, candied cranberry fruit. Long, sappy, herbaceous finish. Around 50% whole-bunch vinified. A third new oak.

Two parcels in the centre of Chambertin, which run the length of the vineyard from top to bottom, and are simply known as ‘north’ (a third) and ‘south’ (two thirds). Dark and majestic, with fine peppery spices. The blackberry fruit is translucent and velvety-textured, allowing the chalky minerality to shine. Poised acidity and fine, powerful tannins, with a ferrous grip on the finish. An elegant Chambertin, and a very complete one. A third whole-bunch fermentation and a third new oak.