DOMAINE
PERROT-MINOT

The domaine’s Gevrey-Chambertin Villages is made from 1.51 hectares of vines, which are 45 years old on average. Half of this comes from Les Justices, in the north, and the other half from Les Seuvrées, in the extreme south – the last parcel in Gevrey. Sweet red berry fruit, with a cherried intensity, a ferrous seam and a salty-mineral finish. 20% whole bunch fermentation.

Chapelle-Chambertin, which takes its name from the old chapel of Nôtre-Dame de Bèze, lies below Clos de Bèze. This is made from two lieux-dits: Chapelle and Les Gémeaux (the twins), whose vines are 70 years old on average, planted on permeable limestone boulders. This often reaches maturity before Chambertin. Blue-black fruits of the forest, with a weighty purity of fruit framed by grippy tannins, and a chalky-mineral definition to the finish.

This tiny plot of 60-year-old vines is located immediately beneath Clos de Bèze, almost adjacent to Chambertin. The slope is very steep and the micro-climate undoubtedly the warmest of the grands crus, allowing the grapes to ripen 5 or 6 days earlier than Chambertin. Only one barrel of Griotte-Chambertin was made in 2021, and it was the only one of the 2021s that we did not taste when we visited. This tends to be an aromatically delicate wine, with small red berry character and exotic spices

This 0.80 hectare domaine-owned parcel of 50 year-old, particularly deep-rooted vines, is the highest plot in the village, located directly opposite the holding of Armand Rousseau. Aromas of bright red berries and roses, with sappy whole-bunch spices. The palate reveals this to be a wine of substance, packed with sweet red fruit and fine stony-mineral grip, with a beguiling finesse to the perfumed finish.

This comes from one hectare, owned by the domaine since 1994 and located on the high part of the slope. The vines are 55 years old on average. Although Christophe would be entitled to blend this with his Charmes-Chambertin, their characters are so different. The soils are clay-limestone, mixed with chalky gravel. The trademark stark rocky minerality of Mazoyères allows the dried herb whole-bunch spice aromas to soar. Mineral-rich, pure and transparent, with an orange rind zestiness. Wonderful wine.

The domaine has access to more vines in Clos de Bèze than in Chambertin. The average vine age here is over 50 years old. Very refined sweet spices and chalky-mineral aromas lead into a palate of roses and flinty dark berry fruit, framed by chiselled tannins. You can feel the presence of the limestone here in a fine grip across the palate. 30% of this was aged in glass Wineglobe, perhaps drawing out the beautiful purity of fruit here.

Occupying a central position on this majestic east-facing slope, Perrot-Minot’s Chambertin comes from vines of over 50 years of age. This is a succulent, strident and gratifyingly fleshy wine in 2021. The palate is giving and dark-fruited, with a powerful chalky-mineral drive, black berry and cherry fruits and a poised density, lifted by playful sappy spices and zesty orange rind energy. Aged in used barrels, with a third in glass Wineglobe.

La Riotte, a premier cru made by just two others, lies on the opposite side of the village from La Rue de Vergy, beside a small road between the vines. Indeed, the name may be derived from Ruotte, a little road. This is a half-hectare holding of 55-year-old vines. Dark and spicy, with crushed peppercorns. The medium-bodied palate is pared-back, more intellectual than voluptuous at this stage, framed by fine tannins.

La Rue de Vergy is a 1.5 hectare holding, a long thin strip of 40-year-old vines located just above Clos de Tart, high on the slope where the soils are thin. Pure and dark berried, with crunchy ripe blackberry fruit and a fine line of chalky minerality. This received 20% whole bunch fermentation in 2021 and was aged in one-year-old barrels.

‘Ultra’ designates the venerably old vines from which this cuvée is made, adjacent to Le Musigny vineyard. This lower part of the Combe d’Orveau has finer, siltier soils which confer greater density. Wonderfully red berried aromas, roses and exotic spices on the nose. The palate is supple and airborne, playful and soaring, this is really the essence of Chambolle. Alas, there is just one barrel in 2021.

The domaine’s only Chambolle village has the cuvée name Orveaux des Bussières, reflecting that around 50% of it is from Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau (upper part of the Combe d’Orveau Cuvée Ultra) and 50% is from old vines (100 years old) in Les Bussières. The total area is just 0.85 hectares. Pretty aromas of roses and sweet spices. The palate is fleshy and beguilingly red-fruited, with a chalky-mineral grip to the finish.

The domaine’s Vosne-Romanée village, which bears the cuvée name Orme des Chalandins, comes from around half a hectare of 45-year-old vines. This is a blend of Les Ormes and Les Chalandins. Spicy, minty aromas, with a fine red berried intensity. Very fine, fruit-coated tannins.

This lieu-dit bottling is made from a stony 0.40-hectare plot just above the grand cru La Grande Rue. Christophe Perrot-Minot has described this as “elegant and diva-like”. This is a dancer, all taking place in the air – rose petal perfume leads into a palate of bright wild strawberry fruit, framed by fruit-coated tannins and with a fine chalky-mineral texture.

The domaine has two hectares in Richemone. Only one barrel was made in 2021, of the usual six. This cuvée retains the name ‘ultra’, in recognition of its ancient vines, the survivors of which were planted in 1902. It is “on the level of a grand cru”, as Christophe says. Dark, intense small dark berries, with a peppery intricacy and sappy spices. Focused and linear, with a long life ahead. Wonderful.