WEINGUT JOH. JOS. PRÜM

This has the most westerly aspect of the Prüm Kabinetts, giving more afternoon sun exposure and a consequently fleshier style. A spicy, peppery nose, with intense white flowers, green citrus and white peach. The palate is zesty, green apple and melon vying with orange blossom. Lingering ripeness. 8% abv.

This is a cooler site, with a more moisture-retentive soil. As always, this wine is a little leaner and more mineral-driven than Badstube, green apple and gooseberry aromas dominating. On the palate, the warmth of the 2020 summer is more visible in the ripe stone-fruit which nonetheless retains a nice crunch and zesty delicacy. 8.5% abv.

The power of Wehlener Sonnenuhr is evident in an insistent brightness of green citrus and fleshy peach aromas. The palate takes another step up in intensity, the delectable, zesty stone-fruit flavours almost chewable, with beautiful balancing acidity holding perfect focus. A long, perfumed finish with a sense of slaty extract. 8% abv.

The western aspect here results in more afternoon sun exposure and a consequently fleshier style. Aromas of peach and apricot, leading into a fresh, citrus and stone-fruited palate, with orange zest and white flowers lingering on the finish. A wine of understated power, impressive. 7.5% abv.

JJ Prüm has over eight hectares in Graach, a cooler site. Flinty mineral aromas with white pepper and jasmine – a playfully floral nose. The palate is supple and sherbety, ripe peach fruit and zesty lemon filtered through a fine-grained mineral lattice. The step-up in richness is effortlessly assimilated. A ripe, fleshy finish. 7.5% abv.

Crystalline lemon and lime aromas, with honeysuckle and apricot, then stony minerality. Uncommon openness at this early stage. The palate is ripe and succulent, the fruit weight currently dominating rather impressively, sustained by an arc of steely acidity which lifts and drives the peach, pear and quince flavours through to a long, focused finish. Wonderful. 7.5% abv.

The flintiness and ferrous mineral aromas of Graach, with cool peach fruit and peppery spice. The palate is much more exuberant and friendly than the 2019 at a similar stage, soft and pliant, with a disarming purity of stone fruit. A wine with a long life ahead but don’t be afraid to try a bottle early. 7% abv.

Honeysuckle and crème brûlée aromas, with ripe peach and apricot. The palate is plushly fruited and cushioned on the entry, the stony mineral definition of this great vineyard just peeking through on the mid-palate and properly emerging on the long, textured finish. Honeyed and decadent. 7% abv.

Fine stone-fruited aromas which combine the ripeness of a warm summer with the zesty citrus and delicate lemon sherbet of this cool site. The palate is rich and yet acid-driven, the clipped freshness and stony mineral definition lifting the flavours so that the fruit all but evaporates in your mouth. Effortlessly ephemeral which, for a wine of real richness, is no mean feat! 7% abv.

Cool, pure lime fruit aromas, with lemon zest and honeysuckle gradually emerging from the glass. Coy and elegant, versus the more extrovert 2019. The palate is more overtly powerful, demonstrative apricot, quince and honey flavours dominating, supported by flashes of nougat and slaty minerality. A great wine in need of time. 7.5% abv.