Deep plum-ruby in colour, this has a lovely intensity from the outset - the product of old vine fruit. The nose presents impressive concentration and focus, perfumed, primary berries, darker fruit compote and savoury notes. The palate, similarly, reveals waves of fresh, upbeat, wild fruit with almost meaty, smoky, spiced, darker tones. A complex blend of light and shade, there is, nonetheless, a focus throughout, a sense of direction and attack - very fine, with great personality.