Buy wine by Domaine des Varoilles at Corney & Barrow

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The Domaine des Varoilles name comes, originally, from a premier cru monopole first planted in the 12th century. The vineyard holdings have expanded over the years, and now cover ten hectares and eight appellations. There has been enormous investment here, re-invigorating naturally stunning old vine sites.

Painstaking attention to detail in both the vineyard and cellar is reaping great rewards and the Domaine is now producing extremely fine wines which will make purists smile. Finesse and elegance are the watchwords here rather than power. There are no rough edges, even in youth. Gilbert Hammel is now in overall charge; a meticulous man, it has been under his tenure that Domaine des Varoilles has soared in quality. Intense colours and profound aromatics are complemented by freshness and a lightness of touch, belying underlying, restrained muscle. The Domaine has a rich portfolio of fine sites.

Photo: Domaine des Varoilles vineyard and estate

Gevrey-Chambertin, to the north of the Côte de Nuits, produces some of the longest-lived, rich and seductive of red Burgundies. It enjoys a high slope with a stunning south-easterly exposure, producing a litany of famous names and the largest number of grands crus of any Burgundian commune. The terroir is extremely variable geologically, with irregular deposits, faulting and slope wash over varied, fragmented limestone, all contributing to the tremendous complexity found across the appellation. The slope rises to 350 metres with the grands crus below 300 metres. There are 27 premiers crus .

Domaine des Varoilles includes premiers crus La Romanée, Clos des Varoilles and Les Champonnets and grands crus Charmes-Chambertin, in its commendable portfolio. It also has enviable villages lieux-dits Clos du Meix des Ouches (a monopole), Clos du Couvent and Clos-St-Pierre . The Domaine also has parcels in Clos de Vougeot and Bonnes Mares.

Of the villages wines, we are delighted to be allocated small quantities of the lieu-dit Gevrey-Chambertin Clos du Meix des Ouches, a fine ambassador for Domaine des Varoilles, with its hallmark finesse and elegance. The Domaine des Varoilles own this one hectare property, in its entirety.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Champonnets is one of a group of premiers crus lying between the grands crus Mazis- and Ruchottes-Chambertin and the village of Gevrey. This example, from the 0.66 hectare of Domaine des Varoilles, clearly steps up a gear from the villages and tends towards sedate wines of medium weight with rounded, supple red and black fruit supported by significant but ripe tannins.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru La Romanée lies upslope from the village on a south-east facing slope. This offers seductive, rather richly-textured wines, complemented by fine mineral notes and well-integrated tannins.

Gevrey-Chambertin 1er Cru Clos des Varoilles is the premier cru monopole, six hectares in size, which gives Domaine des Varoilles its name. Clos des Varoilles is an admirable standard-bearer. Invariably an intense and tannic structure is complemented by lifted spice and floral notes. Rewards the patient.

Charmes-Chambertin Grand Cru : Domaine des Varoilles owns just 0.75 hectare of grand cru Charmes. This tends to provide the power and vigour of Chambertin, but sweet old fruit adds intensity, nobility and finesse – benchmark Domaine des Varoilles.