The Côte Chalonnaise, or Région de Mercurey as it is sometimes called, offers some of the best value for money in Burgundy, with rich whites and characterful reds at more modest prices than their Côte d’Or counterparts. The Côte Chalonnaise is somewhat broken up as the limestone plateau of the Côte d’Or recedes. Small hillocks are hosts to vineyards occupying the best slopes, at between 230m and 320m altitude. The climate here is generally drier than that of the Côte d’Or and the best slopes, as here in Bouzeron, Mercury and Rully, are sheltered.

Domaine A & P de Villaine – the vineyards and the wines

Here, on marl and limestone soils, Aubert and Pamela really made a name for Aligoté, thereby gaining appellation contrôlée recognition for Bouzeron in 1979. Aligoté had for too long been seen as the runt of the Burgundy litter, destined for a dash of local cassis to make it drinkable. Here the de Villaine’s have proved that grown on the right sites with low yields, Aligoté can produce some really exciting wines with very appealing individuality.

Vineyards on the slopes are generally reserved for Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, with Aligoté confined to also-ran status and lesser soils. However at A & P de Villaine in Bouzeron, the Aligoté vines are grown exclusively on the slopes. The nutrient-poor, limestone-rich soil provides natural yield control, aided by strict viticultural disciplines. The warm meso-climate helps the ripening process. Aubert de Villaine also believes that the choice of Aligoté is important, Aligoté Doré being far superior to Aligoté Vert in terms of its aromatic character and its finesse. Production is between 49 and 55 hl/ha (66 hl/ha is allowed). This equates to around 60,000 to 80,000 bottles, in total.

Although Aligoté occupies the lion's share of the slopes, there are certain parcels facing south and others on the valley floor, on which Pinot Noir and Chardonnay do well. Rully Les Saint-Jacques is a parcel which was planted in 1990, lying just below premiers crus Rully 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jacques. Production is 35 to 40 hl/ha, making for just 9,000 bottles in total.

Mercurey Les Montots occupies a south-facing slope planted with specially-selected Pinot Noir clones, from Nuits-Saint-Georges. There were chosen, by Aubert de Villaine, for their naturally moderate yields and their fresh aromatics. Production is 30 to 35 hl/ha, around 7,500 bottles in total.

Domaine A & P de Villaine – the philosophy

Long before organic viticulture’s rise to our attention, Bouzeron was farmed with due regard to the natural balance and interaction of soil and vine. Aubert, Pamela and now nephew Pierre de Benoist, ever respectful of this, continue to refine organic vineyard practices.

Aubert de Villaine has always seen his role as a translator of terroir. At Bouzeron, his aim was to create a wine which lives up to the full potential of each varietal and of that terroir, chosen by the monks, so long ago. Domaine A & P de Villaine controls already naturally-restricted yields by selective planting, rigorous pruning and occasional pre-harvest thinning. The Domaine's harvests are, on average, about 20% lower than the yields authorised by the already-stringent appellation contrôlée regulations. Domaine A & P de Villaine comprises 20.6 hectares in total.