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April 26, 2011

Bordeaux 2010 En Primeur Tastings – Day 2

Lafite VineyardsWe woke on Day 2 to a cloudless sky and the amazing weather was to remain from then on, finally reaching a peak of 32 degrees on Day 6. Château Grand-Puy-Ducasse at 8.15 was the first tasting of what was to be a long day. We tasted the Grand-Puy-Ducasse, also Rayne Vigneau (Sauternes and dry wine) as well as Meyney and Blaignon. Grand-Puy-Ducasse was to become the most tasted of wines during the week; the fruit is good but as it is a massive wine, the structure divided opinion.

Lafite line up - Bordeaux 2010 TastingsNext stop was Château Lafite Rothschild, which we managed to get into a little early. We tasted three wines (picture left), Carruades, Duhart Milon and Lafite itself. I thought Duhart had a little more about it than the Carruades at this stage but, without a doubt, the Grand Vin was on fine form with a notably savoury edge and a long future ahead of it.

We made the small trip from Lafite to Cos d’Estournal (picture right) where the line-up is also three wines with the Goulée first; it was impressive, a wine hitting its stride after first being made in 2003. The Pagodes (second wine) and Cos d’Estournel were both impressive and started to make me think that in 2010 there are several second growths who have made very fine wine indeed (this impression got stronger throughout the week)… I will be intrigued to see how Cos’ Topiary elephants come alone, the cages are there they just need them to grow.

From one top Saint-Estèphe to another, as we got to Montrose. This met will universal approval but especially from Mr. Marus who declared it a return to the “real” Montrose. One more stop before Lunch was at Lafon Rochet, a wine we have had a soft spot for (picture left). A new tasting room at the back of the Chais is a great addition and having tasted the rosé (called Rosette,) we were impressed by the masculine but potentially very good value 2010. A taste of the 2008 was also encouraging for those that have that wine in the cellar. En Route to lunch at La Salamandre in Pauillac, we collected Adam to take the C & B team to five.

Post lunch, Adam was straight in at the deep end as we arrived at Branaire Ducru for the UGC tasting of Saint-Julien, Pauillac & Saint-Estèphe. Once we managed to resist the urge to slump in to one the deck chairs (picture right) we got into the, rather warm, tasting room and got cracking. In several cases this was re-taste time. The standard was high with lots of structure as reported elsewhere but the amount of fruit and acidity was largely in balance. This was not, for me, quite the case at the Margaux UGC down the road at Lascombes; the standard was high but I found the balance a little less obvious. There were strong performances from the Rauzan’s and some others but fewer wines really shone that at the Saint-Julien, Pauillac & Saint-Estèphe UGC.

Claire Bailey joined us at Lascombes before disappearing with Mr. Marus to a Négociant dinner in the evening. Alison, Adam, Bryce and I got back in the trusty wagon and headed to Ducru Beaucaillou where the reception is always a welcoming one with the knee-high riding boots getting their usual approving glance from the visitors. From the tasting, it was interesting to note that from 2005 onwards, the Croix de Beaucaillou has been made from a single vineyard within the Estate. The wines, along with Lalande Borie (totally separate estate,) were good and you could see a common theme. I rated the Ducru as being up there with Montrose and Cos, amongst others.

 Our last tasting of the day was at Angludet (the d’ has gone now) and the wine showed well; better in fact than earlier that day at the UGC. It is structured and big but with good fruit to balance it out. Dinner at Malaki Café was good with Pouilly-Fumé Ladoucette 08 and Rauzan-Gassies 2004…

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