I am very late writing this up but last month there was a visit by Francois Mitavile and the main focus was a Masterclass and Dinner given at Mossiman’s to look at Roc de Cambes and Tertre Roteboeuf. Jamie Goode was a guest and did a good write up on his blog.
Pre-dinner it was 2012 and 2011 of both wines. To hear Francois speak, and I have had the pleasure several times, is always fascinating, there is a logic to what he says but also a very easy delivery that means you find yourself agreeing with things you wouldn’t normally. It is always a challenge to perceived “truths” about wines and winemaking.
So, the wines:
Tertre Roteboeuf 2011 – Lovely clean and precise fruit, quite delicate, fine even. 17-18/20.
Roc de Cambes 2011 – Slightly in it’s shell, good texture but a little subdued on the fruit, has a delicate touch and is fresh which is always good, there is more to come. 16-17/20.
Roc de Cambes 2012 – This is a gem and a wine that would take several more “grand” scalps if tasted blind. There is juiciness to the fruit but never a jaminess. The black fruit is lush but fresh, very rounded and delicious, not yet bottled but you could drink this now. 17.5-18.25/20.
Tertre Roteboeuf 2012 – Elegant, bold, fruited and fresh and potentially very great wine. There is just more layers than the Roc 12, it is not necessarily “bigger”. 18-19/20.
When tasting Francois’ wines the conversation often turns to how well the wines show when so young and how that makes people think they may not age well, they do though and amazingly well.
After a glass of Delamotte Blanc de Blancs 2002, which is lovely now but will be improving further for the next 2-3 years and will then drink like a gem for some time, it was time for Dinner. The food at Mossimans is always good and this was no exception.
– Game Liver Parfait with Red Onion Compote
– Roast Loin of Highland Venison, Juniper Berry Sauce, Market Vegetables
– Croute Belfry
The wines dinner wines were deliberately chosen to showcase different strengths of the two estates.
Roc de Cambes 2003 – This was delicious right now, a little dash of coffee but good fruit and not burnt at all as you may fear for 2003. 16.5-17/20.
Roc de Cambes 2005 – Serious as you would expect, quite taut and tight but with texture that shows the class, refined and best left for 3-5 years then very much enjoyed. 17-17.5/20.
Tertre Roteboeuf 2003 – Good balance for this monstrously hot vintage, drinking well now but with plenty of legs and a future. A quite savoury wine. 17.5/20.
Tertre Roteboeuf 1995 – This had a lovely saline edge, it took a few moment in the glass for the fruit to then appear, once it had you had a moreish and balanced wine at a lovely stage, a savoury salty finish made this one to keep coming back for. 17.5-18/20.
Tertre Roteboeuf BLIND VINTAGE – Now this was interesting as the blind element was very deliberately to show that Tertre Roteboeuf does such splendid things in the “lesser” or more “difficult” vintages. The vintage was 1997 and to me if showed a similar character to the 1995 albeit a looser and more open wine. Really lovely, soft succulent and easy to drink. 17/20.
BY WILL HARGROVE – HEAD OF FINE WINE AT CORNEY & BARROW