Among the most famous white wines of Burgundy, Domaine Leflaive is enjoying new leadership, with Brice de La Morandière at the helm.
Wine Region
Cote De Beaune, Burgundy
Vineyard
Domaine Leflaive
Burgundy is a land destined for wine by nature. In its millennial history, it has intimately linked man to the vine in some places. In Puligny-Montrachet, in the heart of the Côte de Beaune, the Leflaive family has been established for more than three centuries.
1990
Rooted in the early 1990s and fully operational by 1997, biodynamic farming has transformed the Domaine’s viticulture, yield, quality and reputation so that it now rests at the very highest level in Burgundy and indeed of all the great white wine estates of the world.
2015
Since 2015 the Domaine under Brice leadership has gradually expanded with nearly 3 hectares replanted in Puligny, 7 hectares acquired in the Mâconnais and new plantings planned for 2020 in the Hautes Côtes de Beaune
4.8
Domaine Leflaive owns 4.8 hectares of grands crus in the Bienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Chevalier-Montrachet and Montrachet appellations.
HISTORY
Domaine Leflaive is standard bearer for the late Anne-Claude Leflaive’s passionately held views on biodynamic cultivation. This philosophy has at its heart the individual treatment of the vines by plant-based compounds according to a strict timetable governed by the lunar cycle, at the same time as a total ban on systemic chemical treatments and insecticides. Rooted in the early 1990s and fully operational by 1997, biodynamic farming has transformed the Domaine’s viticulture, yield, quality and reputation so that it now rests at the very highest level in Burgundy and indeed of all the great white wine estates of the world.
The Vineyard
The Vineyard
The Vineyard
Domaine Leflaive produces its white Burgundy on two hectares of vines located in Puligny-Montrachet itself, at the bottom of emblematic hillsides, worked with the same care.
History
It is thought to date back to the Oligocene era, nearly 40 million years ago. The buttonhole is aptly named, being an aperture in the surrounding gravel plateau, exposing the vine roots directly to the fertile and moisture-retentive clay below.There is nonetheless also gravel at Petrus, starting some 60cm beneath the surface, which moderates this ready access to highly concentrated nutrients. Drainage is further aided by the gentle slopes.The vineyard itself has twelve sub-plots. As Neal Martin says in his book Pomerol, it is so unusual to see it broken down into these individual parcels that several of the commune’s winemakers failed to recognise it as Petrus in this ‘insider’ format.The two largest plots, Mario and Guy, are named after former vineyard workers, with neighbouring châteaux acknowledged in the names Certan and L’Évangile.
Vineyard
The 7.4 hectare vineyard comprises two main plots. The larger of these, covering around three quarters of the total area, is home to the younger Merlot vines, which are planted on hard limestone soils. The other, a plot called La Boutisse, is on more fractured limestone and is planted with 80+ year old Cabernet Franc and Merlot, bringing up the average vine age to over 45 years.
Three passes through the vineyard are made to harvest young Merlot, old Merlot and finally Cabernet Franc, which are all then vinified separately. Yields tend to be around 25-35hl/ha.
Organic certification was obtained in 2020 and the estate has been a member of Biodyvin since 2014 and currently in biodynamic conversion . Peter is not an advocate of green harvesting, saying he would rather encourage a natural balance in his vines (which was found in 2023 ‘thanks’ to the mildew).
He has encouraged biodiversity, planting bushes and shrubs at the borders of the vineyards. In his words, “I think there is a lot that can be done in Bordeaux to improve the environment.”
Cellars
Peter’s aim is to produce a classic, terroir-focused style of Saint-Émilion.
The manageable size of the estate, with its modern, functional cellar, allows for vinification by parcel and vine age.
Fermentation takes place at a moderate 22°C, so as not to extract too much from Rocheyron’s very concentrated grapes. As Peter diplomatically puts it, “excess concentration is not really the way forward.”
His comments on alcohol are also interesting – the higher the alcohol, the greater the extraction, which needs to be borne in mind, especially with Bordeaux’s increasingly warm summers. Also of interest is that Peter says the effect of climate change on his corner of Bordeaux has so far been beneficial.
If 2023 were an actor, it would be Kenneth Branagh – a modern interpretation of a classic.”
Peter Sisseck
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