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  • 57

    Appellations across Bordeaux

  • 6

    Different classifications in Bordeaux

  • 66%

    Of the region’s plantings are Merlot

Bordeaux producers

Exclusive Region

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Roc de Cambes

Bourg

Bourg lies at the confluence of the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Here the owner François Mitjavile discovered a property where there are resonances of his renowned Saint Emilion Grand Cru estate Tertre Roteboeuf - though on a larger scale. François' philosophy involves an instinct and understanding of the rhythms of the vineyard. There is no room for dogma here. Yields are generally low - but that is not the goal - nor is late harvesting, for which has gained a reputation. He picks when he believes the grapes are ready to be picked and that might be before or after others depending on the vintage. The Côtes de Bourg is a region with great, but often unrealised, potential and François very individual way of working soon unleashed a wine which sits easily amongst the greatest wines Bordeaux produces. Roc de Cambes sits in a natural amphitheatre overlooking the Gironde estuary. It is planted on the most highly reputed slope of the Côtes ("les Croutes") where the heat of the sun on the slope is regulated by the effects of the estuary, permitting regular growth and wonderfully ripe, concentrated fruit.

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L'Aurage 

Côtes de Castillon

Louis Mitjavile, known as Loulou, is François Mitjavile’s son. He is the winemaker of L’Aurage, which he owns with his wife Caroline. The vineyards of Castillon-Côtes de Bordeaux lie on an outcrop of the Saint-Émilion limestone ridge and represent some of the best value in Bordeaux. This is a beautiful enclave of wooded hillsides. The plantings are 95% Merlot and 5% Cabernet Franc, although the percentage of Cabernet Franc is diminishing, as all Louis’ replantings are now Merlot. The oldest vines are 17 years old. Loulou places great importance on “couture-like” winter and early-spring vineyard work. Loulou recently installed new temperature regulation in the cellars, which maintains a minimum 15-16ºC. He has found that this enables him to achieve roundness and richness more easily in his wines. L’Aurage spends 18-20 months in oak, which is 100% new, from the Radoux cooperage.

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Clos St-Martin

St-Émilion

Clos St-Martin is one of three Saint-Émilion estates owned by the Reiffers family — the sister properties being Côte de Baleau and Grandes Murailles. This is a jewel of a property at a mere 1.33 hectares — not much bigger than a rugby field — Saint-Émilion’s smallest classified growth. The Reiffers have had vineyards since 1643 — so the weight of responsibility on Sophie Fourcade, currently at the helm, could be a hefty burden, but it is lightly borne. She is supported by consultant winemaker Michel Rolland. The philosophy of the family is to respect the terroir and rigorously pursue quality. The vineyard enjoys an excellent location upon the renowned limestone plateau with southwestern exposure and is surrounded by four of the grands crus — Beausejour Duffau Lagarosse, Beausejour Becot, Canon and Clos Fourtet. The vineyard density is 5,000 vines per hectare, planted to 75% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Franc and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon.

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Château Rocheyron

St-Émilion

Rocheyron is a cool site. So cool, in fact, that its vines escaped the infamous 1956 frost, which decimated much of Saint-Émilion and Pomerol. The sap had still not started moving in Rocheyron’s vines, which remained in their dormant, protected phase. Nearly 70 years later, Rocheyron’s cool terroir is again proving a boon in the age of climate change. You can see how its ability to retain freshness and its enviable location on the edge of Saint-Émilion’s famous limestone plateau, appeal to Peter Sisseck. Bordeaux was where Peter’s winemaking career began, before he moved to Spain and founded Dominio de Pingus. His return to take on Rocheyron in the 2010 vintage was therefore a completing of the circle. Rocheyron was the surname of the family who owned the estate in the seventeenth century. The cellar and vineyard team is managed by Régisseur Mathieu Raveraud, who has worked alongside Peter here since the estate was acquired in 2011 and in his quiet, assured way, has been a key ingredient in the success of Rocheyron. The estate has been certified organic since the 2020 vintage and continues in biodynamic conversion, having started the process in 2014. This is a château that has found its path – the past few vintages have produced beautiful wines which hit the sweet spot between aroma and density, with that underpinning limestone tension.

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Tertre Rôteboeuf 

St-Émilion

Tertre-Rôteboeuf lies 2km southeast of Saint-Émilion on a very special, peninsular extension of the slope which houses Châteaux Pavie and Larcis-Ducasse. This extends to a hillock, the hauts de côte, with the slopes beneath, pleines côtes, which encompasses the lieu-dit Rôteboeuf. A mere 6 hectares in size, the rise to fame of Tertre-Rôteboeuf from relative obscurity has been dramatic. Even without a grand cru classé title, it is one of Saint-Émilion’s cult wines. This turnaround has been spearheaded by a unique individual, François Mitjavile, aided and abetted by his wife Miloute and, increasingly, his son and daughter Louis and Nina.During the early seventies, François and Miloute had successful careers in Paris but regularly visited Miloute’s vigneron family members in Bordeaux. This included her father, who at the time, owned Le Tertre and rented it out to cousins. At this point, they knew nothing about viticulture or vinification, money was scarce and there was no cellar, winemaking paraphernalia or even barrels at the property — minor inconveniences — but they elected to take on Le Tertre vineyard and leave their city lifestyle behind. Their new venture began with a lengthy two-year stage at Château Figeac, where François learnt the practical side of the vineyard and cellar. Château Le Tertre was then returned to family control after the 1977 vintage. The couple decided to differentiate themselves from the other Tertres by adding Rôteboeuf (literally translating as belching ox) to the name, alluding to the cattle which used to graze the land. This addition also reflects the different slopes of the property — Rôteboeuf for the lower slopes and Tertre for those higher up, surrounding the house and garden.  Finally, Château Le Tertre-Rôteboeuf was en route. There was a name, a vineyard, a base of experience on which to build and a potentially lovely house, with inspirational views over the Dordogne and across to the Entre-deux-Mers

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Château Barrail du Blanc 

St-Émilion

Château Barrail du Blanc produces wines that are exceptional for their depth and consistency. Owned by the same family for over 150 years, this property is located in the commune of Saint-Sulpice de Faleyrens, in the south of the Saint-Émilion Grand Cru appellation. The vineyard, averaging 25 years of age, is planted on gravel and clay soils that allow for good drainage and are particularly well-suited to Cabernet Franc. The grapes are treated with attentive care by Monsieur Elliès and his daughter, Nathalie, in the vineyard and in the cellar. Ploughing, green harvesting, and leaf cropping are favored in order to ensure a consistent maturity of the fruit.

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Château la Courolle

St-Émilion

The Guimberteau family has been involved in wine production for over 100 years and the current steward of the family domaines, Rodolphe, is the fourth generation.Château La Courolle is situated on the plateau of Montagne-Saint-Emilion on argilo-calcaire (clay-limestone) soil, planted at 6,000 vines per hectare.The 14 hectare vineyard is planted with 70% Merlot, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon and15% Cabernet Franc.

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Château Mayne-Graves

St-Émilion

Located north of Pomerol, adjacent to Saint-Denis-de-Pile, this vineyard benefits from a coastal/continental climate, which helps create ideal growing conditions. Spanning 4 hectares, it is planted with 6,000 vines per hectare, with an average vine age of 30 years. The soils are composed of gravel, providing excellent drainage and a perfect foundation for the vines. Viticulture practices include ploughing between rows, as well as de-budding and leaf thinning; the east side is tended to in July, while the west side is worked on in August. Green harvesting and rigorous sorting ensure only the highest quality grapes are selected.

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Petrus

Pomerol

The name Petrus derives from Petros, or St Peter, who is pictured on the wine’s label (iconic and, if you look closely, endearingly quirky), holding a key. The key to the cellar, or to the kingdom of heaven? Perhaps it works for both. The land which became Petrus is mentioned in the Pomerol archives of 1746, although the name itself dates from the end of the 18th century. In 1837, the wine first appears in the list of a Bordeaux broker. In the 1898 edition of the reference tome Féret*, Petrus was ranked as the top wine in Pomerol, a status it holds to this day. Olivier Berrouet now wields the key to Petrus. Olivier has already proven himself a worthy successor to his father, from whom he took over in the 2008 vintage.

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Château Trotanoy

Pomerol

Only the central plateau was planted with vines at that time, whilst on today’s map of Pomerol, Trotanoy sits almost dead centre, due north of the village of Catusseau. By the 19th century, Trotanoy had the twin distinctions of being Pomerol’s joint-largest volume producer and being ranked second in quality – behind Vieux Château Certan and ahead of Petrus. Trotanoy can therefore be seen to owe its longstanding importance in the Pomerol fabric to both its historical size and its increasingly dominant geographical location. Various plots were sold off over the years to settle inheritance expenses. One former parcel forms the core of today’s Château Latour à Pomerol. By 1908, the holdings had been reduced to a still-fairly-substantial 18 hectares. Jean-Pierre Moueix purchased Trotanoy in 1953. This was both his most significant acquisition to date and the turning point in the estate’s history. Under the steely resolve of Jean-Pierre and later the nurturing hand of his son Christian Moueix, Trotanoy rose to the position it holds today.

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Château Latour â Pomerol

Pomerol

Château Latour à Pomerol is situated near the church of Pomerol on a plateau 130 feet above sea level, where the best grapes of the region are cultivated.It is a winegrowing estate consisting of two main plots: one with light, loam-based soils, which is adjacent to the well-known Chateau La Grave à Pomerol estate, and the other with deep beds of gravel and clay. This is the perfect environment for the vines, which have an average age of 35 years or more, to produce grapes with a diverse spectrum of flavours, thus imparting a complex and appealing structure to the resulting wine. Despite having a profusion of legendary vintages under its belt, little is known of the excellent property – an insider’s wine. Since 1963, Ets. J-P Moueix, one of Bordeaux’ top wine producers and merchants, has acted as agent for its wine and has been in charge of the estate’s careful vine cultivation and winemaking. The resulting wine boasts stellar provenance. Latour à Pomerol has crafted a succession of successful and well-balanced vintages and consistently produces very fine wines.

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Château La Grave à Pomerol 

Pomerol

Château La Grave à Pomerol (known until 1992 as La Grave Trigant de Boisset) lies to the northwest of the Pomerol plateau, bordering Lalande de Pomerol. This is owned by Christian Moueix and is home to Laurent Navarre, managing director of Ets. J-P Moueix so it gets more than its fair share of scrutiny. The vineyard is planted on gravel soils with some clay, with vines of an average age of 30 years, which makes for wines with an elegance and lightness of touch – less of the more obvious power and structure seen in other wines from the plateau. Through very rigorous crop thinning and selection, the Moueix team produce rather seductive wines with charm and finesse. The magnum format will enjoy greater longevity but stylistically the base wine is the same.

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Château La Fleur des Graves

Graves de Vayres

This property was bought by neighbouring Château Goudichaud in 2002. From the outset La Fleur des Graves was singled out as the potential flag-bearer, the First Wine of the two properties. Château La Fleur des Graves de Vayres comes therefore from the best plots, strictly maintained, so that volumes are limited (production 25hl/ha) and hallmark quality, structured wines are produced.

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Château Bel-Air Eiffel 

Graves de Vayres

Having decided to make his own wine rather than sell to a négociant (merchant), Philippe Serey-Eiffel, great great grandson of the engineer of the Eiffel tower, set about it with meticulous attention to detail, as befits his original profession – engineering. This tiny appellation was created in 1931 at the behest of Philippe’s great grandfather and it warrants being singled out from the Bordeaux Supérieur appellation which it could also bear. This is a gravelly enclave with deposits from the Dordogne and Isle rivers – a very particular soil profile and markedly different from the rest of the Entre-Deux-Mers. The mass of the river also impacts on the micro-climate. This is a very elegant fine style of winemaking with an emphasis on balance. The emphasis on quality is marked throughout here. Bel-Air is one of the rare properties which respects traditional balance between the varietals. This is an expensive but quality-led decision as Cabernet is lower yielding. Since 2021, the property is being managed by long time friend, Yves Glotin (from Château La Fleur des Graves) and Jean-Philippe Janoueix.

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Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux  

Haut-Médoc

Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux takes its name from the proprietor, Mr Dutruch, who established the vineyard on the Poujeaux plateau in around 1850, and remained the property of the Dutruch family until 1967 when it was bought by François Cordonnier. The estate has remained in the Cordonnier family ever since. François expanded Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux from 11 to 28 hectares and in 1993 his nephew, Jean-Baptiste Cordonnier, took over the running of the estate. Jean-Baptiste’s first harvest was 1994 and he implemented a series of innovations to improve the quality and finesse of the wine. His last major innovation was the construction of a new winery in 1999. In 2016 Jean-Baptiste sold Château Dutruch Grand Poujeaux to his brother, François Cordonnier, who appointed young winemaker Sébastien Olivar to run the estate.

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Château Saint-Aubin 

Médoc

Château Saint-Aubin’s story is one of sustained quality and tradition. With roots going as far back as the 17th century, and owned by the same family since the early 20th century, the estate has managed to maintain its family feel, as well as consistently retaining its Cru Bourgeois classification. For much of the 20th century, the estate engaged in other agricultural activities, such as breeding livestock and growing grain, alongside vine cultivation. Eventually, the family decided to focus solely on their vines, later purchasing more land and planting additional varietals. Following this expansion, and after joining forces with the Cordonnier family, the estate has continued to grow and flourish.

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Château Lafon

Médoc

Château Lafon is a historic wine estate located in the Listrac-Médoc appellation of Bordeaux, France. Situated approximately 3km from the village of Listrac-Médoc, the estate benefits from the region's distinctive gravelly ridges, which are ideal for viticulture. Historically, Château Lafon gained recognition under the stewardship of Mr Dominique Douat in the early 20th century. In the 1908 edition of "Bordeaux and its Wines", Édouard Féret praised its "full-bodied and colorful fine wine, rated the best in the country." Ownership transitioned through several hands, including Mrs Boyé, Mr Flamerie Chapel, and Mr Théron. Since 2011, the estate has been under the ownership of Groupe Bel Eden. ​Château Lafon exemplifies the rich winemaking heritage of the Médoc region, delivering wines that reflect the unique terroir and traditional craftsmanship of Bordeaux.

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Château Briatte

Sauternes

Château Briatte is a family-owned estate located in the heart of the Sauternes appellation in Bordeaux, France, near the commune of Preignac. The property has been managed by the Roudes family for three generations, with Michel Roudes and his wife Françoise overseeing operations since 1986. Michel handles viticulture and winemaking, while Françoise manages customer relations.

History

The Latin poet Ausonius was the first to document grapevines growing in Bordeaux (believed to be in Saint-Émilion) in 379 AD. During the Middle Ages, Bordeaux monopolised wine distribution to Great Britain until trading abruptly ceased due to The Hundred Years War. By the 17th century, the Dutch emerged as a new trading customer to the Bordelais, steering production towards fine wine. More importantly, they drained a local marshland to plant vines, now known as the Médoc, and implemented techniques to ensure longevity and safe transport of the wines. In 1851, the vine disease Powdery Mildew hit Bordeaux vineyards, taking until 1857 to discover the preventative sulphate spray. Meanwhile, the famous classification of 1855 commenced at the request of Napoleon III. This included 60 châteaux from the Médoc and just one from Pessac-Léognan (Château Haut-Brion) producing reds, to be ranked from first growths to fifth growths, and 27 properties from Sauternes and Barsac for the sweets. Only one revision has ever been made since 1855 — Château Mouton Rothschild was promoted to Premier Grands Cru Classé in 1973. From 1875-1892, the severe onset of phylloxera destroyed multiple vineyards. Eventual relief came by grafting vines onto American rootstocks (which are resistant to the louse). However, Bordeaux vineyards were hit once again, this time by Downy Mildew. By 1882, the fungus had ripped through the country’s vineyards but was finally saved by spraying vines with a mixture of lime, copper sulphate and water — the Bordeaux Mixture. Saint-Émilion’s classification was established in 1954, nearly 100 years after the Médoc, and châteaux are reviewed every ten years. There are currently 64 Grand Crus Classés and 18 Premiers Grands Crus Classés (split into ‘A’ and ‘B’). Pomerol is the only fine wine district in the region without a classification system, but Château Petrus is regarded as an honorary first growth wine.

Geography

Bordeaux hugs the Gironde estuary from the Atlantic Ocean, which then splits into the Garonne and Dordogne rivers. Vineyards within Bordeaux are often divided into ‘Left Bank’ (to the west) and ‘Right Bank’ (to the east), depending on which side of the Gironde they sit on. Situated to the left, the Médoc boasts some of the region’s most impressive châteaux, made famous by the 1855 classification. The appellations (from north to south) include Médoc, Saint-Estèphe, Pauillac, Saint-Julien, Listrac-Médoc, Moulis, Margaux and Haut-Médoc. Further south, you can find Pessac-Léognan and Graves, recognised for both reds and dry whites, before reaching Barsac and Sauternes, known for luscious dessert wines and, increasingly, dry whites. On the right-hand side, the hallowed appellations within the Libournais include Saint-Émilion and Pomerol, along with other highly regarded areas such as Fronsac and Laland-de-Pomerol. The Blaye and Bourg appellations are located north of the Libornais on the Right Bank, while the Entre-Deux-Mers (between two seas) sits between the Dordogne and Garonne rivers. It is also important to note that AOC Bordeaux and Bordeaux Supérieur cover the whole region.

Terroir/Soils

Many of the appellations’ terroir is nuanced by a mosaic of soils, aspects and altitudes, with many châteaux putting strong cases forward of having their own unique microclimates. However, to give a general overview, vineyards on the left tend to have more alluvial and gravel soils, which are better suited to Cabernet Sauvignon. On the right, the soils are more limestone and clay dominant which prefers Merlot. Many properties throughout the region practice organic and/ or biodynamic viticulture to ensure the best quality grapes.

Grapes

Bordeaux winemakers are masters of blending grape varieties, especially for the most prestigious châteaux. The properties in the Médoc generally have terroir better suited to Cabernet Sauvignon, which is often complemented by Merlot and smaller quantities of grapes such as Malbec, Carménère and Petit Verdot. Vineyards in the Libournais area favour Merlot and Cabernet Franc as their principal grape varieties. For dry white wines and sweet wines, Sauvignon Blanc and Sémillon represent the majority of plantings, with a small amount of Muscadelle used by some producers.

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