THE DOMAINE
Domaine de Villaine, in the pretty, undulating Côte Chalonnaise is co-owned by Pamela and Aubert de Villaine and their nephew, Pierre de Benoist, who has managed the domaine for over 20 years.
The domaine was bought by the de Villaines in 1971. They moved to Burgundy when Aubert was appointed co-director of Domaine de la Romanée-Conti in Vosne-Romanée.
Preferring to live outside the Côte de Nuits, Pamela and Aubert settled on the tranquil village of Bouzeron. Alongside his duties in Vosne-Romanée, Aubert began to produce wine in Bouzeron too. Domaine de Villaine’s first vintage was 1973.
Pierre de Benoist comes from a wine family – his father Philippe de Benoist owns Domaine du Nozay in Sancerre, today run by Pierre’s older brother, Cyril.
THE WINES
THE 2021 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE DE VILLAINE
The Bouzeron holdings include some 150 year-old Aligoté vines. The domaine also has parcels in neighbouring Rully and Mercurey. The estate has been managed organically since 1986, with organic certification in 1997. Ageing takes place in a mixture of barrels and large oak foudres, with practically no new oak.
Pierre’s recent exciting expansion into Rully means that this duo of 2021s are released now, whilst the 2020 Rully premiers crus will be offered separately in due course.
BOUZERON
Bouzeron is arguably the village for Aligoté. The domaine’s 17 parcels of Aligoté Doré vines cover nine hectares. Tasted in November 2022, 12 days before bottling, this showed bright green citrus, with crunchy apples and pears and a high line of lemony acidity. Tangy and precise on the finish. “An intellectual vintage”, according to Pierre. Vinified in old oak foudres, the volume of each tailored to the individual plots.20,000 bottles were made in 2021, in place of the usual 60,000.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2023–2027
THE 2021 VINTAGE AT DOMAINE DE VILLAINE
The Bouzeron holdings include some 150 year-old Aligoté vines. The domaine also has parcels in neighbouring Rully and Mercurey. The estate has been managed organically since 1986, with organic certification in 1997. Ageing takes place in a mixture of barrels and large oak foudres, with practically no new oak.
Pierre’s recent exciting expansion into Rully means that this duo of 2021s are released now, whilst the 2020 Rully premiers crus will be offered separately in due course.
BOURGOGNE ROUGE
Fans of the Mercurey Montots will have noticed its absence this year. Due to the small 2021 quantities, Domaine de Villaine has blended its Mercurey and Santenay holdings, to make this Bourgogne Pinot Noir. Gentle raspberry fruit and dark peppery spices are sustained by fresh acidity. Good early drinking.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5
Recommended drinking from 2024–2026