DOMAINE
PERROT-MINOT

The domaine’s Gevrey-Chambertin Villages is made from 1.51 hectares of vines. Half of this comes from Les Justices (north) and the other half from Les Seuvrées (extreme south – the last parcel in Gevrey). Dark and whole-bunch driven on the nose, whose exotic spices carry through onto the palate in a fresh-mint sappiness that lifts the deep blackberry fruit, all framed by very fine tannins. Long, driving finish.

Chapelle-Chambertin, which takes its name from the old chapel of Nôtre-Dame de Bèze, lies below Clos de Bèze. This is made from two lieux-dits: Chapelle and Les Gémeaux (the twins), whose vines are 90 years old on average. Fresh red berry fruit, whose joyful richness and crunchy definition opens onto a silky mid-palate, peppered with fine crushed rock minerality.

This tiny plot of 60 year old vines is located immediately beneath Clos de Bèze, almost adjacent to Chambertin. The slope is very steep and the micro-climate undoubtedly the warmest of the grands crus, allowing the grapes to ripen 5 or 6 days earlier than Chambertin. Although not ready to be tasted when we visited, this tends to be aromatically delicate, with small red berry character and exotic spices.

This 0.91 hectare domaine-owned parcel is the highest plot in the village, located directly opposite the holding of Armand Rousseau. Bright red berries and roses, with sappy whole bunch spices, as charming as advertised. The palate is juicy and fine, with an incredible raspberry fruited purity and an echo of the chalky terroir in its fine stony mineral grip.

This 0.74 hectare holding is owned by the domaine and is located on the high part of the slope. Christophe would be entitled to blend this with his Charmes-Chambertin but understandably is of the opinion that they are far more interesting vinified separately. Deeper soils here. The stark rocky minerality of Mazoyères allows the dried herb whole-bunch spice aromas to soar. The fine, dark berry fruit of the palate is underpinned by a sappy tension. Delicate white flower perfume on the finish.

The domaine has access to a greater area of vines in Clos de Bèze than in Chambertin. This is starker and more mineral than Chambertin (bearing more resemblance to Mazoyères than Charmes), with friable aromas of roses, dried herbs and ripe raspberry. On the palate, the fine textural chalky structure is readily visible, enhanced by intricate tannins which allow the pure dark berry fruit to shine. A wine of luminosity. “Like an echo”, I scribbled…

The more forceful sibling of neighbouring Clos de Bèze, Chambertin is more succulent, fleshier, more strident. Aromas of raspberry and blackberry, with soaring violet perfume. The palate is sweet-fruited on the entry, opening onto a mid-palate of succulent red berries, all very pure and crystalline, framed by majestic supporting tannins which insinuate rather than impose. Highly impressive, with long ageing potential.

La Rue de Vergy is a 1.4 hectare holding, a long thin strip of 40 year-old vines located just above Clos de Tart, high on the slope. Exotically spiced on the nose, with a supple black-and-red fruited approachability and hints of orange zest. The palate is medium-bodied, the dark berry fruit framed by supple, fruit-coated tannins. An inviting wine which should start to drink relatively early.

La Riotte, a premier cru made by just two others, lies on the opposite side of the village from La Rue de Vergy, beside a small road between the vines. Indeed, the name may be derived from Ruotte, a little road. This is a half-hectare holding of 55 year-old vines. Aromas of white peppery spice, dried tea leaves and sweet spices. The palate is pure and dark-fruited, with the fine rocky-mineral nuance of Morey and a sweet opulence.

This, the domaine’s Chambolle village, has the cuvée name Orveaux des Bussières, reflecting that 40% of it is from Chambolle-Musigny 1er Cru La Combe d’Orveau and 60% is from old vines (100 years old) in Les Bussières. The total area is just 0.85 hectares. Aromas of dark berries and soaringly pretty raspberry fruit, with rose petal perfume and spices. The pure, red-berried palate has a sappy focus and a linear, salty drive.

‘Ultra’ designates the venerably old vines from which this cuvée is made, adjacent to Le Musigny vineyard. This lower part of the Combe d’Orveau has finer, siltier soils which confer greater density. Fine, aromatic raspberry and wild rose aromas, with exotic spices and dried tea leaves. The palate is sappy and focused, the proximity to Musigny evident in its powerful chalky texture. Pristine red berries passed through a fine-tooth comb of limestone.

The domaine’s Vosne-Romanée village, which bears the cuvée name Orme des Chalandins, comes from around half a hectare of 44 year old vines. Sadly, this was one of only two wines which were not ready to be tasted when we visited in October 2021.

This lieu-dit bottling is made from a stony 0.4 hectare plot just above the grand cru La Grand Rue. Christophe Perrot-Minot has described this as “elegant and diva-like”. Dark and spicy on the entry, with a beguiling aromatic exuberance of sweet raspberry fruit and roses.

The domaine owns 0.83 hectares of vines in Les Beaux Monts, planted in 1955. Christophe describes this as “very mineral”, undoubtedly a signature of this wine. Aromas of dried spices and tea leaves, exotic and herbal. The palate is sappy and crystalline, the weighty raspberry fruit framed by fine grippy tannins and lifted by fresh acidity.

This is a blend of premiers crus Richemone (50%, 70 years old), Les Murgers (25%, 60 years old) and Les Cras (25%, 50 years old). This makes particular sense as all three are contiguous, in the northern part of the appellation, on the border with Vosne-Romanée. A dark-fruited, focused core of rocky minerality, with sappy spices and the lift and perfume of Vosne above. A winning combination.

This is made from just 0.7 ha of the domaine’s two hectares in Richemone (the rest going into Murgers des Cras, above). This cuvée retains the name ‘ultra’, in recognition of its ancient vines, the survivors (around 40%) of which were planted in 1902. It is “on the level of a grand cru”, as Christophe says. Aromas of taffeta-fine rose petals and delicate wild strawberry fruit. The sappy palate is lifted by a beautiful acid curve, with clipped drive and momentum making the rich raspberry fruit dance, all framed by fine-boned tannins. Outstanding.