ARTADI 2021 & 2022
Wine Region
Rioja, Spain
Vineyard
56 hectares
Since leaving the Rioja appellation at the end of 2015 in order to pursue this vision, owner Juan Carlos López de Lacalle has developed a revelatory parcel-based approach to Rioja. This year, we have a treat in store: two Artadi vintages, from two totally different growing seasons, 2021 and 2022. I visited recently, just before the 2023 harvest started, to taste through both and discuss them with Juan Carlos, his daughter Patricia and longstanding export director Ana Rodriguez. In short, 2021 was cooler and later-picked, owing much of its character to a sunny early October with very cool nights. This fresh, precise approach suits the Artadi style wonderfully. By contrast, 2022 was warm and, were it not for these old vines and sensitive viticulture, could easily have produced fruity, gourmand wines – whereas the Artadi ‘22s display an incredible freshness and backbone to stand up to their impressive structures. Which to buy then? My answer is simple: pick a vineyard or two, buy both vintages and compare them. Two contrasting years, both high quality, which provide ready-made insights into the effects of terroir and vintage in this special corner of Rioja.
GUY SEDDON,
HEAD OF FINE WINE BUYING
NOVEMBER 2023
VIÑAS DE GAIN
VIÑAS DE GAIN 2021
Viñas de Gaín, which we are delighted to be offering for the first time in the 2021 vintage, is a Tempranillo blend from around 20 vineyards in Laguardia and Elvillar. The elevation ranges from 450 to 700 meters. An aromatic, fruit-driven wine of pure, bright cherry fruit. The palate’s crystalline red berry fruit vibrates with energy. So much more than ‘entry-level’ – this is a serious wine in its own right and a great expression of the Artadi terroirs. Fermented in oak and stainless steel vats, followed by ageing in barrel for eight months.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029
£140 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
ELVILLAR
QUINTANILLA 2021
2021 is the sixth vintage of Quintanilla, which comprises 1.13ha of clay over hard limestone and sandstone mother rock. It achieves high ripeness levels, due to its flat aspect. Coffee bean and mocha on the nose. The palate is rich and dark-fruited, with liquorice, framed by firm tannins. An impressive Quintanilla, which I suspect will age and meld beautifully.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£195 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
QUINTANILLA 2022
Quintanilla is a 1.13 hectare vineyard of clay-limestone soils, with hard limestone and sandstone beneath. It reaches high levels of ripeness, due to its flat aspect and long sun exposure. Spicy and dark-fruited on the nose, with more red-berried sweetness and generosity on the palate than the 2021 vintage. A welcome touch of vanilla pod and cedar, rounded out by 25% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£220 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
LA POZA DE BALLESTEROS 2021
La Poza, named after a pool-like hollow at its centre, is a west-facing 1.18ha site, planted in 1960. It sits opposite Valdeginés (the next wine) but gets the afternoon sun and is picked around four days earlier as a result. There is correspondingly greater intensity and firmer tannin. The soil is poor silty clay, dotted by limestone. There is a nice sweet-fruited flamboyance here, compared to the firmer Quintanilla, with crushed peppery spice. The palate is impressively concentrated and wonderfully fresh, with minty lift and a ripe, sustained, poised finish. Love this. 14.5% abv. A “Mediterranean” wine, in Juan Carlos’ words.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£420 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
LA POZA DE BALLESTEROS 2022
Poza, named after a pool-like hollow at its centre, is a west-facing 1.18 hectare site, planted in 1960. It gets the afternoon sun and is picked relatively early as a result. The soil is poor silty clay, dotted by limestone. Aromas of wild strawberries and white flowers. The firm palate’s impressive structure is softened by a nice fruit coating to the tannins. This will benefit from cellaring, to give the terroir a chance to emerge. As Juan Carlos said, La Poza is here showing its “Mediterranean” side. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£490 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
LAGUARDIA
VALDEGINÉS 2021
Valdeginés is directly opposite La Poza de Ballesteros. At 4.1ha, it is over twice the size of La Poza and sits partly on the slope – shallow soil over sandstone – and partly on the deeper-soiled, cooler clay-limestone terraces. The east-facing slope receives the early morning sun, resulting in a fresh style. Focused and fine, poised between red and black berries, lifted by fresh acidity with a salty definition to the finish. Classical music, to the rock of La Poza. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025–2032
£205 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
VALDEGINÉS 2022
Valdeginés is directly opposite La Poza de Ballesteros. At 4.1ha, it is over twice the size of La Poza and sits partly on the slope – shallow soil over sandstone – and partly on the deeper-soiled, cooler clay-limestone terraces. The east-facing slope gets the early morning sun, resulting in a fresh style. The ripeness of 2022 suits Valdeginés wonderfully, ushering it out of its shell and coaxing out its more flamboyant side. An overperformer in ’22. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2032
£245 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAN LÁZARO 2021
San Lázaro is the elder statesman of the single vineyards. Its 1.62ha of vines were planted in 1956. It is also higher, at 650 meters of elevation. The soils are well aerated, and the resulting wines tend to be complex and age worthy. A very fluid expression of these deep clay-limestone soils, the dark berry fruit enlivened by fresh acidity and a coffee bean richness on the finish. Juan Carlos described this as “liquid earth”. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£390 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
SAN LÁZARO 2022
This is the elder statesman of the single vineyards, whose 1.62 hectares of vines were planted in 1956. It is also high, at 650 meters of elevation. The deep clay-limestone soil is well aerated. San Lázaro tends to be a complex, mineral-driven wine. In 2022, it has a tantalising umami character which, along with pure red berry fruit and chalky minerality, makes for a wine of intensity and panache. Great sense of texture and a focused finish. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2026–2034
£465 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
EL CARRETIL 2021
El Carretil is a 3.64ha plot planted in 1930, 1975 and 1988, on a variety of soils at around 500m of altitude. Although mainly south-facing, El Carretil is further north and cooler. This is the most limestone-rich of Artadi’s vineyards. The nose is brightly red-fruited, fizzing with energy. This is both dense and wonderfully light on its feet, the limestone pulling the rich berry flavours together on the palate and making for a long, linear, driving finish. Wonderful – and very close to El Pisón this year. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+
Recommended drinking from 2026–2036
£705 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
EL CARRETIL 2022
This is a 3.64ha plot planted in 1930, 1975 and 1988, on a variety of soils at around 500m of altitude. At the highest points, there is clay-limestone over sandstone bedrock and in the deeper, cooler areas, the topsoil covers a layer of silt and clay. Although mainly south-facing, El Carretil is further north and cooler. Aromas of blueberry and milk chocolate, wonderfully pure. The palate is fleshy on the entry, finding that limestone purity and tension on the mid-palate. This wears the 2022 ripeness lightly, allowing access to the mineral heart of the vineyard. So good. 14.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5 - 19
Recommended drinking from 2026–2036
£800 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
EL PISÓN 2021
This 2.4ha walled vineyard is the heart of Artadi. Its gnarly bush vines, on deep clay-limestone soils, were planted by Juan Carlos López de Lacalle’s father in 1945. It is protected from the wind and enjoys optimal sun exposure. A fabulous nose of crushed herbs, roses and violets, pure raspberry and wild strawberry fruit. The palate is dense and sweetly fruited on the attack, opening onto a multi-faceted, explosive palate. This has “a fifth dimension”, as Juan Carlos says.
Corney & Barrow Score 19
Recommended drinking from 2026–2038+
£1,230 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
EL PISÓN 2022
This famous 2.4 hectare walled vineyard is the apogee of Artadi. Its gnarly bush vines, on deep clay-limestone soils, were planted by Juan Carlos López de Lacalle’s father in 1945. It is protected from the wind, with ideal sun exposure. Supple and welcoming on the entry, then deft and embracing on the mid-palate, the dense blackberry and cranberry fruit lifted by a fresh line of acidity. As Juan Carlos says, this doesn’t attack, it envelops. Spherical and cohesive, very impressive.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5+
Recommended drinking from 2026–2038+
£1,425 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK