In 1908, Giovanni Conterno started making wine unlike anyone else around. He saw past the carts of demijohns drunk early without much care. He reckoned that a longer fermentation and barrel ageing would suit the grapes better than the early drinking wine that flowed from the area.
The Beginning of Conterno
It was a revelation. So much so that in tough economic times, the Italian tradition of giving Barolo as a Christmas present kept the company afloat. When Giacomo, Giovanni’s son held the reins he did what his father never could. He bought a vineyard. This vineyard, known as Francia, was 17 acres of incredible potential in Piemonte. Previously the wine had all been made from bought in grapes. Now Giacomo could own the process. Along with the family looks, Giacomo inherited his father’s fastidiousness. No stone would be left unturned (sometimes quite literally) in the pursuit of perfection.
Just like his father before him, when Roberto took over as owner, he brought another level of single-minded determination to Conterno. He was sure he could improve the best Italian wine.
Will Hargrove, Head of Fine Wine at Corney & Barrow, counts Conterno in his all time favourite wines. And this is the guy who goes to every DRC tasting we hold. He went out to Conterno recently to taste the latest wines. We’re releasing the latest Giacomo Conterno wines soon, sign up to get the offer. Here are Will’s notes.
Tasting The Latest Conterno Wines
Barbera Francia 2014
Full crimson colour to the edge, deep at the core. Rich and full dark cherry nose with stones, minerality and a saline edge that is not quite as marked as usual for Francia, very good nose, all round balance. The tannins are delicious and moreish this is a brooding wine but not a heavy one, the fruit lifts on the finish to an almost cranberry freshness. I wonder how Roberto does this every year. 17.5+
Barbera Cerretta 2014
Half a shade lighter in colour than the Francia but essentially very similar. The nose if more lifted, more obviously fruity, more opulent may be. The fruit character is redder, strawberry and raspberry but actually deeper than either of those fruits suggest. The palate has a tang to it, moreish tannins. This, as usual, has more approachability and lift than the more serious Francia. 17.5
Before moving on to the 2012 Barolos, Roberto thought it would be useful to taste the Barolo Francia 2009 as he sees similarities with the 2012’s.
Barolo Francia 2009
Colour is lightening more than evolving, a lovely hue. There is a touch of red strawberry fruit then more floral notes before a little iodine and some good, ripe grip. Drinking well but obviously no rush at all.
Barolo Francia 2012
There will be no Monfortino from the 2012 vintage (as was the case in 2007, 2009 & 2011) so the botti that would have been Monfortino (there is a section about Monfortino at the very bottom of this post) has been blended into the Francia (this happened back in January). Lovely bright and complex colour. Ever so slightly muted just now but a lovely red fruited sweetness comes through behind, very fine. Tobacco leaf and tea then appear, a little leather also. The palate is then more fruited again but with good, proper tannins, mellow but persistent. The overriding impression is of a wine in balance with gentle fruit and a lovely complexity of silky tannins. 18-18.5+
Barolo Cerretta 2012
Paler in colour but only just, more obviously fruited and lifted, strawberry leaf. This is a wine more easily understood by the uninitiated Neb-head (as us Nebbiolo fiends are sometimes know). The texture is deeper the fruit is more pronounced and therefore the tannins less obvious. There is a real freshness and a certain rich elegance. It’s quite a wine, a perfect foil to the classicism of the Francia. 18+
We then moved on two taste two more wines.
Monfortino Barolo Riserva 2010
This is a possibly the most eagerly awaited Italian wine release of all time. I have now tasted it three or four times with equally profound results. There is impeccable balance incredible poise and an almost effortless weight to the wine…Very exciting and now in bottle.
Barolo from Cascina Francia vineyard 2013
With the final decision on this wine not yet made it was great to taste the 2013 Francia or to give it it’s correct name, Nebbiolo di Barolo Francia. It was a vibrant and expansive nose, rich, opulent and bold. There is iron and a grainy saline elegance to the texture…quite something.
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