Whilst tweets and pictures can easily be done on the hoof from Bordeaux during the En Primeur tastings there is never time to really reflect while in the middle of it. The pace is frenetic. Tasting starts before sunrise and finishes after dark and dinners follow. We don’t expect sympathy but tasting 250+ young wines, 90% of which are red, does leave the tastes buds looking forward to a beer before dinner.

So, as I sit on the return flight, after six days in Bordeaux and review the itinerary I wanted to share some thoughts on what we tasted and the conversations we had.

First Growths First

We started at a first growth…straight to Haut Brion off the plane and a magnificent tasting it was. Real purity and clarity from the reds and whites at “La Mission” and Haut Brion itself. A rare En Primeur treat. The same owners Quintus from St.Emilion turned out a best yet as well.

Jean-Philippe Delmas was also the first producer we interviewed. A quick lunch at Le Bord d’eau, love the name, on the way out of Libourne towards Fronsac was a welcome boost of energy. We saw two generations of the same family. Louis Mitjavile at Domaine de l’Aurage and his father Francois at Tertre Roteboeuf.

Simply brilliant wines at both estates and we were starting to get a feel for what could be achieved in 2015; a tender concentration and vibrancy. We looked back at the 2014’s at both estates and I firmly believe that the pair of vintages will show lovely contrasts over the following decades. Having left Francois with a stream of visitors we headed across St.Emilion to meet up with Peter Sisseck.

A great experience followed, as well as tasting Rocheyron with Peter we got to try the Psi, Flor de Pingus and Pingus 2015. This vintage is the 5th at Rocheyron having started in 2010 (there was no “Grand Vin” in 2013). The estate is really blooming under Peter’s command.

Moueix Makes Its Mark

Saturday started, bright and clear, with a leisurely, the only one, start as we headed to La Fleur-Petrus to meet Edouard Moueix and taste the family’s wines. It is a special day in the Corney and Barrow calendar. One particular aspect of the tasting reinforced in me an observation of the vintage.

The 2015’s with only a few exceptions, are not hard work to taste.

This is of course a relative observation, the teeth still end up black and the palate fatigued but in comparison to a more masculine, foursquare vintage like 2010 these wines had a real vibrancy and energy.

Following the tasting (more on that in the offer) which included my top wine of the week, we had a lovely lunch. Hosanna 2001 and Trotanoy 1990 both from magnum. The former just starting to be in the drinking zone and the later a lovely wine, mature but with a long life ahead.

Christian and Edouard gave us an insight into their vineyard practises as we shared an hour amongst the vines…it was among the best hours I have spent in Bordeaux – so often you launch from Chateau to Chateau and tasting to tasting but my interest is always in the vineyards.

I was intrigued by the appointment we had on the Saturday evening. Clos Saint Martin is a minute estate in St.Emilion tucked away behind Chateau Canon and many other 1er Grand Cru Classe B’s. The wine though was a real standout, juicy but precise. A glass of champagne followed on the terrace and then dinner back in town.

An Antipodean Greeting in Graves

Then on to Graves. Nicola and Sean Allison greeted us at L’Avocat for a unique tasting including a single barrel of Carmenere and a small batch of 100% Semillon. This Welsh/New Zealand couple are ones to watch.

Old friend Paulin Calvet was then ready for us at Picque-Caillou in Pessac for the days final tasting. The wines made here are amongst the best value that you can find in En Primeur. The chance to re-taste the 2012 red was appreciated, if you have some try a bottle or two soon, no rush but nice now.

Monday morning was a confusing concept by now as disorientation had well and truly set in. We divided forces with the elite team, I would say that, of Bordeaux Buyer Paul Marus and I heading off up to Leoville Las Cases.

This is often one of the most “uncompromising” of tastings but this year there is a tenderness to Las Cases. The rest of the team which now included reinforcements from the early flight had headed to the “Stade”. This is Bordeaux’s new stadium, the Maymut Atlantique to give it its full name, and the place where all the Union de Grand Cru wines could be tasted in one go. Normally each commune only holds a separate tasting.

The idea of “all under one roof“ is one we liked. It had caused a few arguments amongst the estates and been a unpopular move with many of the press but it is a move that makes the wines accessible to more people more efficiently.

Forces remained divided for the afternoon with the newly names “Bambino mobile” heading to Cheval Blanc whilst the old guard, well and me too, headed to Rauzan-Gassies, the best value 2nd growth, then the “Bartons”.

The Highlights of the Trip

Tuesday was a day of Chateau visits on the left bank. Architecture as well as wine made it a fascinating start at Carmes Haut-Brion where they have an amazing winery that will be opened in June, pictures being embargoed until then, it must be one of the biggest boundary-pushers when it comes to wine as well. Firm opinions were exchanged at Palmer before we went to Chateau Margaux.

With the recent passing of Paul Pontallier this was always going to be an emotional visit, the wines were stunning a fitting tribute to Paul.

St.Estephe and Pauillac tastings were on the menu for the afternoon. Highlights being Calon-Segur and something of a cabernet Masterclass at Ducru-Beaucaillou. The team divided before the end with Guy, Chris and Annabel taking in Pontet Canet and Latour.

For the first time last year we visited a friend and customer in St.Emilion who hosted us to a spectacular dinner. A festival of blind wines, always with a theme…it was truly memorable, one bit of the week we can’t even nearly pretend was work!

The Home Stretch

Getting up at 6 the next morning but when Petrus, Rouget, Conseillante, Lafite and Mouton are on the agenda it’s not that hard. Breakfast at Rouget after tasting the 2015 was as engaging as ever, Edouard Labruyere is doing quite something there.

Petrus always has the possibility of being underwhelming, so high is the expectation but anyone who tastes must surely have it in their top wines. Simply monumental. Effortlessly fresh on the nose then the power and structure rolls in…special. On traditional that has instilled itself is something of a meat feast on the last lunch, Café de L’esperance in Bouliac being the venue.

I look in my note book and see that I tasted 269 different samples. Lunches and dinner took in a “few” more wines, 29 I think. It’s a marathon but a good one.

2015 could be a lively campaign – it does depend on speed and pricing. We need to see the wines released soon, sadly unlikely, and at a price that engages the drinker.

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