Established in 1890, Château de la Tour is the largest proprietor of the Clos de Vougeot. It arguably offers the most complete expression of the Clos. The domaine’s 5.5 hectares equate to 11% of the appellation. The château itself is one of only three buildings in the Clos de Vougeot. The domaine was passed down from François Labet’s mother’s family. François has been president of the Vins de Bourgogne Wine Board (BIVB) since 2015 and was awarded the Légion d'honneur in 2019 for his long service to the region. His son Édouard has become an equally prominent and engaging face of the domaine in recent years. The highly regarded Sylvain Pataille is the family’s longstanding consultant winemaker. We tasted the 2023 vintage from barrel, which offered a complete overview of the parcel-by-parcel approach to these wines. There is no lack of natural power in the Clos de Vougeot. The name of the game is harnessing and tempering that power, without in any way diminishing it. It is a game that the Labet family play brilliantly — these 2023s show their special terroir through a prism of spicy elegance. It is worth noting that there is no Hommage in 2023, so the Vieilles Vignes includes the oldest and most concentrated fruit that would otherwise have gone into the top cuvée. Corney & Barrow is the exclusive agent for Château de la Tour and sister property Domaine Pierre Labet in the United Kingdom and Singapore.
Ten micro cuvées are made in total, of which seven go into the Cuvée Classique wine, two into the VV and one into the Hommage, when it is made.
CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU CUVÉE CLASSIQUE
The Cuvée Classique comes from mainly old vines in the upper sections of the Clos de Vougeot. Aromas of pure dark berries, liquorice, bitter cherry, cranberry and dark chocolate. The palate is cool and focussed, its powerful dark berry fruit brightened by pops of red berried purity and delineated by pretty spices and a cohesive sappy tension. Ferrous and salty on the long, aromatic finish, which is framed by fine tannins. A beautiful combination of power and finesse, with exotic spices from 70% whole-bunch fermentation. 35% new oak. 13.7% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2028-2040
CLOS-VOUGEOT GRAND CRU VIEILLES VIGNES
The Vieilles Vignes is selected from vines aged over 70 years, from the domaine’s two main parcels. At its heart is the domaine's 1910 plot. Its dark berry aromas are enriched by exotic spices, fresh mint leaf, white pepper and dried roses. The palate offers a vibrant interplay of sappy tension and powerful old vine fruit, which is poised between red and black, all framed by fine, assertive tannins. Salty minerality persists on the long finish. 70% whole-bunch fermentation. Around a third new oak. 13.7% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 18.5
Recommended drinking from 2031-2045
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