INTRODUCTION
Our relationship with Pierre Morey dates back to his 20-year tenure as Régisseur of Domaine Leflaive, from 1988 to 2008. The ‘Morey era’ includes some legendary Leflaive vintages.
Our relationship with Pierre Morey dates back to his 20-year tenure as Régisseur of Domaine Leflaive, from 1988 to 2008. The ‘Morey era’ includes some legendary Leflaive vintages.
Pierre Morey combined his position in Puligny-Montrachet with running the family estate in Meursault. It is no coincidence that certain milestones were reached concurrently at both domaines, such as turning biodynamic in 1997.
Domaine Pierre Morey’s ten hectares span the villages of Monthelie, Pommard, Puligny-Montrachet and Meursault, where the domaine is based. In addition, the family has access to some choice parcels which are vinified identically at the domaine and bottled under the négociant label, Maison Morey-Blanc, established in 1992.
Today it is Pierre’s daughter, Anne Morey, who runs the day-to-day life of the domaine, whilst Pierre remains co-manager. In addition, Anne’s son, Jean Victor Morey, joined the estate in the 2020 vintage. There are now therefore three generations to, in Anne’s words, “together watch over the vines and the wines.”
HISTORY
The Morey family dates back to at least the sixteenth century in Burgundy and has been present in Meursault since 1793.
Auguste Morey, Pierre’s father and Anne’s grandfather, started as a share-cropper for Domaine des Comte Lafon, in 1935. During this time of economic hardship, the entire 14 hectare Comte Lafon estate was divided between nine share-croppers.* Pierre established Domaine Pierre Morey in 1971, producing his own wines alongside those of his father. In 1984, the Lafon family decided gradually to retake control of their vineyards.
From 1988 to July 2008, Pierre Morey was régisseur of Domaine Leflaive. As mentioned, Corney & Barrow’s first contact with him was at this time. During this period, Pierre also oversaw his own domaine and his nascent négociant-éleveur activity.
From 1991, Pierre started using organic agricultural principles, along with some biodynamic preparations in the vineyards. The domaine became 100% biodynamic in 1997, the same year that Domaine Leflaive converted to biodynamics.
Pierre’s daugther Anne Morey co-manages the domaine and is now its driving force.
* Under this arrangement, those working the land received a share of the crop.
CELLAR
The wines are made in the domaine’s wonderful old, vaulted underground cellars. Winemaking is protective, with 100% destemming of the reds.
White wines
After hand-harvesting, the grapes are sorted (as pictured here) and lightly crushed before being pressed. The must is then racked into tank for 12- 24 hours, during which a light débourbage (settling) is done while retaining the fine lees, which are the main source of nourishment for the (all-natural) yeast.
The juice is then transferred to oak barrels where the alcoholic fermentation takes place. After fermentation, the wine is punched-down two or three times a week until around Christmas.
The wines remain in barrel until the following autumn, when they are racked and then returned to their lees.
Fining is very light. Depending on the vintage, the wines may or may not be given a light filtration. Maturation of the Chardonnays lasts, depending on the vintage, from 16 to 20 months. Bottling is done by gravity.
Red wines
The grapes are hand-harvested then sorted, followed by 100% destemming and transfer to large oak vats. Fermentation, without addition of yeasts, begins after a few days. Light punchdowns and pump-overs are performed.
The temperature is controlled during fermentation, cool at first to encourage colour and tannin extraction, then warmer towards the end. The wine is then transferred to oak barrels.
Wines are aged for 15 to 20 months. Bottling is done by gravity after blending, usually without fining or filtration.
VITICULTURE
The domaine owns 10 hectares of vines.
As well as its home village of Meursault, it has holdings in Puligny-Montrachet, Pommard and Monthélie.
Biodynamics has, for over 20 years, informed all viticultural decisions at the domaine. Anne Morey speaks of “respect for the vineyards” as central to the approach here. Soil aeration and composting encourage the development of the soils’ microbial life, improving the health of the vines and bolstering their resistance to parasites and diseases.
The approach is as hands-off as possible: only very low doses of natural products are used.