Olivier Leflaive En Primeur 2022

The village of Santenay sits just below Chassagne-Montrachet at the southern tip of the Côte de Beaune. Skilful blending from a number of plots around the commune has led to a wine that balances bright fruit and a certain angular poise. A darker fruit profile than one might expect, with dusty blackberry and tart red plum notes supported by gossamer tannins. Peppy acidity and stony minerality adds an extra refreshing lift.

From a single premier cru plot just below the famed grands crus of the hill of Corton, facing northwest on clay-limestone soils. The combination of the site’s cool terroir and a warmer vintage has resulted in a beautifully structured, age-worthy expression of Pinot. Savoury, almost meaty, with grippy tannins, the wine is balanced by bright pomegranate and red apple notes. This will reward patience, with great structure for ageing. Aged in barrel, 20% of which is new oak.

Les Sétilles is the classic ‘cuvée ronde’, emblematic of the house style and the vintage. It is a blend of around eighty parcels from different villages, each contributing their own distinctive characteristics. A significant proportion of the fruit comes from Puligny and Meursault, the former more ‘aérien’ and energetic, chalky textured; the latter creamier, richer. A very respectable white Burgundy: classically structured, stylish but without exaggeration. ‘Generous in spirit this year’ (to quote Franck Grux), with a gentle curve of orchard fruit, and silky length.

Made in small quantities, Olivier Lefaive’s Pernand brings together two stunning parcels, Les Combottes (mid-slope) and Les Pins (a higher, slightly cooler site), combining concentrated fruit with incisive, chalky acidities. Dynamic and expressive, the wine is scented with white flowers, taut fruit etched with flint; the light silky texture cut by zesty acids.