This is my notes from a tasting and presentation of the Olivier Leflaive 2014’s by the winemaker and Olivier’s right hand man Franck Grux. Franck is a great man to listen too as he manages to combine Terroir, humour and realism – a rarity.
One note, these are samples and it is very early to be judging these wines, most Burgundy tasting starts in September following harvest. Scores are therefore very much a loose guide.
Bourgogne Aligote – Primary, very pure, not overtly green on the nose, surprisingly alluring. Gooseberry and green fruits do then appear on the palate but are not sharp, some pear and dry lychee. 15.5
Bourgogne Blanc “Les Setilles” – This sees 10% new oak for ageing. For the fermentation it is 20-30% steel tank and 70-80% is fermented in barrel which can be up to 6 years old. Grapefruit and some yellow fruits. Good weight and presence, lemon citrus on the finish. 16 (+)
Montagny 1er Cru Bonneveaux – Slightly briney, good balanced fruit, white and yellow, a lovely balanced finish, the most complete yet. 16-16.5+
Rully 1er Cru Rabource – From 4-5 producers and 85% barrell fermented (not new oak). Good nose with a little reduction, nicely weighty richness, then a nice mineral palate, pretty special for Rully. 17 (+for value)
Pernand-Verglesses – Good salinity here, great drive and energy, so obviously further north than the Rully. Lemon and lime somehow manage to meld with a lovely oystershell finish. 16.5-17(+)
Saint-Aubin 1er Cru En Remilly – A village that has seen crazy levels of demand for both land and crop now. 100% barrel fermented. A more yellow fruit flavour, more unctous and rich, a shade reduced, serious again, this sample only finished malolactic fermentation two weeks previously. As always one of the standouts. 17.5
Puligny-Montrachet Les Meix – Olivier owns this along with one other supplier. 100% barrel fermented. More toasted with more sweetness of fruit and intensity, cropped at 38hl/ha rather that the allowed 50. 17.5
Meursault Narvaux – Saline, quiet closed, more richness and generosity on the palate. Not as easy to judge now. 16.5-17
Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru Les Referts – From two different sites within Referts, 40-50 yrs old. Drier and more serious than Les Meix. Franck reports this is on the Meursault side of Puligny. 100% barrel fermented. 17-17.5+
Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Abbaye de Morgeot – Always a touch of class here, depth and freshness in equal measure, ripe green fruit. Impressive. 17.5-18
The overall impression at this very early stage is of a vintage with more of everything than the nice but earlier drinking 2011 or 2013. It strikes me as a year with good fruit and texture but also the drive to be classical…encouraging.