Domaine de Villaine
Wine Region
Côte Chalonnaise, Burgundy
Vineyard
29.33 hectares
Domaine de Villaine is co-owned by Pamela and Aubert de Villaine and their nephew, Pierre de Benoist, who has managed the domaine for over 20 years.
The domaine has two bases: the original domaine buildings in Bouzeron, which were bought by Pamela and Aubert de Villaine in 1971 and, as of 2017, a property in Rully. The latter had been known since the 19th century as Domaine Saint Michel. Pierre de Benoist had in fact made the wines here in the 2004 and 2005 vintages. The domaine’s six single-vineyard Rully premier cru Chardonnays are offered a year behind the other wines. This offering is therefore of the 2022 vintage.
The Bouzeron holdings include some 150-year-old Aligoté vines. The domaine also has parcels in neighbouring Mercurey. The estate has been managed organically since 1986 and certified organic since 1997. The wines are vinified in barrel and large oak foudres, with barely any new oak. These wines, along with the Rully Les St-Jacques, are from the 2023 vintage.
Domaine de Villaine’s total holdings extend to 29.33 hectares.
TASTING NOTES
RULLY 1ER CRU LES MARGOTÉS 2022
Margotés is the domaine’s southernmost Rully vineyard, with a core of 80-year-old vines, surrounded by plantings from the 1960s. This is windy and cold. Pierre has one hectare here, in three plots. Cedary and mineral on the nose. The palate is textured and tactile, with lots of white minerality, dry extract and chalky definition. Cool and poised. Bottled in January 2024. Around 80% is vinified in large foudres, with the remainder in barrels, the latter including a small proportion of around 5% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2025-2030
£295 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
RULLY 1ER CRU GRÉSIGNY 2022
A 0.55-hectare plot of venerable 80-year-old vines on rocky clay and limestone, bought sight-unseen by Pierre in 2011, such is its reputation as one of the finest vineyards in Rully. Pierre says that he has learnt a lot from the vines of Grésigny, and its small, millerand berries. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage. It will be aged in a mixture of barrels and demi-muids.
Recommended drinking from 2024-2029
£295 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
RULLY 1ER CRU MONTPALAIS 2022
The domaine’s Montpalais, made since 2016, is not quite 0.4 hectares and is planted with 10–15-year-old vines. There is around 10% Chardonnay Muscaté here, a clone with a floral, exotic edge, bringing a little aromatic flair. Montpalais is “the exact opposite of Grésigny”, according to Pierre, who says that this is where the warmer northern sector of Rully meets the cooler south. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage.
Recommended drinking from 2025-2029
£295 / case of 12 bottles, in bond UK
RULLY 1ER CRU LES CLOUX 2022
Made by Domaine de Villaine since 2018, Les Cloux comes from 1.11 hectares in two steep east-facing plots with deep, stony clay-limestone soils. Pierre confesses this is a favourite, with similarities to Chassagne-Montrachet. A fine minerally nose, leading into a palate of white peach and lemon rind, with persistent, driving energy. Salinity and a touch of bitterness to the finish. Aged in a combination of barrels and demi-muids.
Corney & Barrow Score 18+
Recommended drinking from 2025-2030
£295 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
RULLY 1ER CRU RACLOT 2022
Raclot also began in 2018, following the purchase by Domaine de Villaine of Domaine Saint-Michel. This is a 0.42-hectare plot, the oldest vines of which are 35-40 years old. Pierre describes this as a “romantic wine”. Vinified in one new demi-muid and old barrels. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage.
Recommended drinking from 2025-2029
£295 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
RULLY 1ER CRU RABOURCÉ 2022
As for Cloux and Raclot, Rabourcé at the domaine dates from 2018. This is a 2.36-hectare holding, spread over three plots. It is the warmest and northernmost of the domaine’s Rully vineyards, with white clay soils. Fleshier and quite powerful, this is a forceful wine, with body and intensity. Vinified 60% in large old oak foudres with the remainder in barrels and demi-muids. 8% new oak.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+
Recommended drinking from 2025-2029
£295 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK