BOUZERON BOURGOGNE ALIGOTÉ 2023

Bouzeron is an Aligoté-only appellation and a heartland for this grape, whose naturally high acidity makes it particularly adapted to the world of climate change. Domaine de Villaine has been instrumental in the rise in awareness of both the place and the variety. The domaine’s 17 parcels of Aligoté Doré vines cover nine hectares of the domaine’s total 30. A salty and tactile Aligoté, less fruit-forward than in 2022, with fabulous saline granularity. Picked in October. This will spend 10-12 months in old oak foudres, the volume of each tailored to the individual plots.  

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2025-2028

£150 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RULLY LES SAINT-JACQUES 2023

This 1.7-hectare plot in the north of the appellation is southeast facing on deep, rich soils. This tends to be the most flamboyant of the domaine’s Rullys. True to form, this is expressive on the nose, with bright white peach fruit and creamy density, full of verve and energy. The yields here are very low — Pierre retains just four bunches per vine, with thick skinned berries. Vinified in one foudre, with the remainder in barrels, all old oak. This will drink early.  

Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2025-2027

£155 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MERCUREY LES MONTOTS 2023

Planted just after the Second World War. The first vintage of this wine was 1991. You can feel the south-facing, warm aspect here — what Pierre refers to as “Mediterranean”. Red cherry fruit and firm, honest tannins. 2025 will be the last vintage of this much-loved wine, so buy it while you still can! The 2023 was due to be bottled the week after our visit, in November 2024. 60% whole bunch fermentation. 

Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2026-2031

£195 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RULLY 1ER CRU LES MARGOTÉS 2022

Margotés is the domaine’s southernmost Rully vineyard, with a core of 80-year-old vines, surrounded by plantings from the 1960s. This is windy and cold. Pierre has one hectare here, in three plots. Cedary and mineral on the nose. The palate is textured and tactile, with lots of white minerality, dry extract and chalky definition. Cool and poised. Bottled in January 2024. Around 80% is vinified in large foudres, with the remainder in barrels, the latter including a small proportion of around 5% new oak.  

Corney & Barrow Score 18 

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030 

£295 /CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 

RULLY 1ER CRU GRÉSIGNY 2022

A 0.55-hectare plot of venerable 80-year-old vines on rocky clay and limestone, bought sight-unseen by Pierre in 2011, such is its reputation as one of the finest vineyards in Rully. Pierre says that he has learnt a lot from the vines of Grésigny, and its small, millerand berries. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage. It will be aged in a mixture of barrels and demi-muids.  

Estimated drinking from 2024 - 2029 

£295 / CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 

RULLY 1ER CRU MONTPALAIS 2022

The domaine’s Montpalais, made since 2016, is not quite 0.4 hectares and is planted with 10–15-year-old vines. There is around 10% Chardonnay Muscaté here, a clone with a floral, exotic edge, bringing a little aromatic flair. Montpalais is “the exact opposite of Grésigny”, according to Pierre, who says that this is where the warmer northern sector of Rully meets the cooler south. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage. 

Estimated drinking from 2025 - 2029 

£295 /CASE OF 12 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 

RULLY 1ER CRU LES CLOUX 2022

Made by Domaine de Villaine since 2018, Les Cloux comes from 1.11 hectares in two steep east-facing plots with deep, stony clay-limestone soils. Pierre confesses this is a favourite, with similarities to Chassagne-Montrachet. A fine minerally nose, leading into a palate of white peach and lemon rind, with persistent, driving energy. Salinity and a touch of bitterness to the finish. Aged in a combination of barrels and demi-muids.  

Corney & Barrow Score 18+ 

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2030 

£295 /CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 

RULLY 1ER CRU RACLOT 2022

Raclot also began in 2018, following the purchase by Domaine de Villaine of Domaine Saint-Michel. This is a 0.42-hectare plot, the oldest vines of which are 35-40 years old. Pierre describes this as a “romantic wine”. Vinified in one new demi-muid and old barrels. This was one of three wines not available to taste due to its stage of élevage. 

Estimated drinking from 2025 - 2029 

£295 /CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK 

RULLY 1ER CRU RABOURCÉ 2022

As for Cloux and Raclot, Rabourcé at the domaine dates from 2018. This is a 2.36-hectare holding, spread over three plots. It is the warmest and northernmost of the domaine’s Rully vineyards, with white clay soils. Fleshier and quite powerful, this is a forceful wine, with body and intensity. Vinified 60% in large old oak foudres with the remainder in barrels and demi-muids. 8% new oak.  

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+ 

Recommended drinking from 2025 - 2029 

£295 /CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK