Domaine du Couvent

Wine Region

Burgundy, France

Vineyard

Domaine du Couvent

Based in the heart of Gevrey-Chambertin, Domaine du Couvent was formed by the unification of Domaine des Varoilles and Domaine Misset-Chéron in 2020. Owner Philippe Chéron is not a new face in the Côte de Nuits. He had been at the helm of his family estate, Domaine Misset-Chéron, since taking over from his father in 2011. When the Chéron family later became sole owners of Domaine des Varoilles, Phillipe decided to unify the estates under one label. Taking its name from the cellar where the Varoilles wines were made — a former all-girls boarding house run by the nuns of the Couvent de Chatel (located in the Jura region) — the building houses an impressive underground cellar where today the domaine’s wines age. The Chéron family also have vineyard holdings in Vacqueras and Gigondas in the Rhône Valley, which are run independently by Phillipe’s brother and sister.

Domaine du Couvent was formed by the unification of Domaine des Varoilles and Domaine Misset-Chéron.

This domaine has included the holdings of the ex-Domaine des Varoilles since Gilbert Hammel’s retirement in July 2020. We tasted the 2022s in October 2023 with father and son team Philippe and Paul Chéron, in the domaine’s cellars in the centre of Nuits-Saint-Georges. These are sensitive, elegant wines, made by a family operation whose future appears to be in safe hands.

Domaine Misset-Chéron was established during the late 1930s by Phillippe Chéron’s grandfather, Paul Misset, when he acquired a plot of Clos de Vougeot vines. Not being a vigneron, however, he entrusted the management of his vines to Vosne-Romanée farmers. By the mid-90s, Paul’s son-in-law, Denis Chéron, took over the running of the Domaine and acquired new plots in Chambolle-Musigny and Vosne-Romanée along with a new vat room in the historic centre of Nuits.

Domaine des Varoilles was bought in 1964 by the Chéron family in conjunction with the Naigeon family, winegrowers from Gevrey-Chambertin. In the following years, the estate expanded and included the purchase of an old convent in 1970 which formed the Domaine’s headquarters. By 1990, the Naigeon family sold their shares of the vineyard to a Swiss importer, who withdrew from the Domaine in 2020, making Chéron the sole owner. The two Domaines were then merged into a single operation and took the name Domaine du Couvent.

In 2011, Phillipe Chéron, Denis’ son, was put at the helm of the estate. Since he took over, the Domaine has acquired further vineyard plots, including their first in Gevrey-Chambertin.

THE 2022 VINTAGE

We tasted Philippe’s own 2022s alongside those which he took on from Domaine des Varoilles. Taking over mid-season cannot be easy but he has remained true to the Varoilles style which we know and love. Going forward, I suspect Philippe will aim for increased elegance and will reduce the use of new oak (both positives for me). We are offering here the legacy ex-Varoilles wines but look out for more from this producer in the months and years to come. Exciting times here.

MARSANNAY BLANC LES LONGEROIES

This comes from a 0.35-hectare parcel. It is a similar terroir to Marsannay’s Clos du Roy, according to Philippe. The vines face east, with exceptionally long rows (250m) that are characterised by a slight slope that becomes steeper towards the top of the parcel. The soils are a combination of rolled pebbles, silt and Bresse marls. A wine of clarity and texture with fine white peach fruit. Only five barrels were made. Fermented in oak barrels for 15 months with no lees stirring. The wine is lightly fined before bottling.

Corney & Barrow Score 17

Recommended drinking from 2025-2028

£195 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

BOURGOGNE CÔTE D’OR PINOT NOIR LES JUMELLES

From two tiny plots — Grands Champs and Prunier — totalling 0.33 hectares, this ‘simple’ Bourgogne Pinot Noir includes vines in Gevrey-Chambertin. Clay rich soils, meaning you have to be careful with the yields. Dark cherry fruit and spices from the 100% whole bunch fermentation, which Philippe did for the first time in 2021. Bright and fresh, a wine of lively energy and dark coulis fruit. Eight barrels were made in 2022, which was the maximum here.

Corney & Barrow Score 17+

Recommended drinking from 2025-2029

£145 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

MARSANNAY CLOS DU ROY

Just 0.43 hectares here, in this admired Marsannay lieu-dit in the north of the appellation. 2022 is the second vintage. The fruit comes from two plots at lower elevation, a flatter parcel rich in marls, and a steep higher elevation site on sandy-clayey screes. This is a pure, rich, dark-fruited Marsannay, with phenomenal depth and a crunchy bitter cherry character. 100% destemmed.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2024-2031

£195 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS DU COUVENT MONOPOLE

From a 0.4-hectare plot located within the garden of the Varoilles winery in Gevrey-Chambertin and surrounded by a stone wall. Ripe raspberry and redcurrant fruit with a pure, tender immediacy. As Philippe says, there is a natural ripeness in this plot, requiring a hands-off approach probably because the surrounding wall creates a micro-climate. He describes drawing out the elegance of the old vines. Nine barrels were made in 2022.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2024-2031

£315 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN CLOS MEIX DES OUCHES MONOPOLE

This one-hectare vineyard is a monopole, owned in its entirety by the domaine. It has similar stony soils to the adjacent 1er Cru Champonnets. Half of the vines here are over 60 years old, whilst the rest are around half that, planted in the 1990s. The clay-limestone soils are relatively interspersed with gravels. Philippe Chéron described this as “a joyous site and wine”. Effusive bright red berry and cherry with raspberry coulis. The palate is sweetly fruited and joyful. 15 barrels were produced in 2022.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+

Recommended drinking from 2025-2030

£390 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES QUARANTES OUVREES

Named after the size of the plots used in this cuvée ouvrées or 1.78 ha an ouvrée being an old French term for the area of land a vigneron could work in one day. This wine comes from the historic Paul Misset estate, from 12 plots covering eight climats within the village of Chambolle-Musigny. Paul Misset (Philippe’s grandfather) pieced these holdings together from growers without enough vines to farm them commercially. Most of the vines are over 40 years old. 100% destemmed. Tender and perfume-infused, this gets at the essence of Chambolle — the roses and soaring red berries framed by very fine tannins. 20 barrels were made in 2022. 15% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2025-2034

£320 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY CLOS DE L’ORME

Coming from a plot of 10 ouvrées 0.42 hectares, within the larger climat of Clos de l’Orme, and bordering the 1er cru sites Les Charmes, Aux Combottes and Aux Echanges. There is a little slope, which is stony, aiding drainage. The vines were re-planted at various stages between the 1940s and the youngest vines which were planted in 1997. A darker-fruited nose leading into a palate of greater concentration and power compared to the 40 Ouvrées cuvée. 50% whole bunch vinification. Only eight barrels were made.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+

Recommended drinking from 2026-2036

£350 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VOSNE-ROMANÉE LES BARREAUX

Philippe and Paul have two plots, covering 0.75 hectares, in the lieu-dit Les Barreaux. This climat sits above Richebourg, Cros Parantoux, Aux Brûlées and Les Petits Monts, high on the slope . Vines are planted over a thin calcareous topsoil, with over 60% limestone. Part of the vineyard is cooler, facing north, whilst the remainder is east. This retains fresh acidity and moderate alcohol. Raspberry coulis, rich and pure. 100% destemmed and aged in 15-20% new barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+

Recommended drinking from 2028-2038

£360 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU CHAMPONNET

This is even stonier than neighbouring Clos du Meix des Ouches. There are two parcels here, totalling over a hectare, making Couvent the biggest producer in Champonnet. It is an extension of Ruchottes-Chambertin, situated just before the cool breezes of the Combe de Lavaux. The terroir is complex, marked by the presence of numerous secondary faults and where the orientation and slope of the hillside vary rapidly. The vines are between 30 and 60 years old. A blend of the ex-Varoilles and ex-Misset holdings, this has a combination of dark old vine fruit and fresh acidity. Lovely wine.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2026-2036

£440 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHAMBOLLE-MUSIGNY LES FEUSSELOTTES 1er CRU

This was introduced to the lineup in the 2021 vintage. Just 0.42 hectares, this site runs from the southern side of Chambolle Musigny to the Co premiers crus Charmes, Les Grands Murs and Chatelots. The name, Feusselote is derived from the word ‘Feusse meaning ‘hollow’ relating to the vineyard’s convex topography. The soils are shallow, composed of Comblanchien limestone and marl. Rich, dark berry fruit with limestone tension and finesse. Long, salty finish. Nine barrels were produced in 2022. 100% destemmed and in 15-20% new oak.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+

Recommended drinking from 2026-2035

£550 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

NUITS-ST-GEORGES 1ER CRU AUX MURGERS

This is the domaine’s smallest plot, at 0.24 hectares. Philippe explained that the elegance of this cuvée is due to its location between Vosne-Romanée and Nuits St-Georges and has characteristics of both villages. Domaine du Couvent’s plot, is mid-slope and rises very old vines, which adds to the wine’s complexity. Spicy dark berries and liquorice with exotic flair, bringing a freshness to the palate. Only four barrels were produced in 2022. Vinified entirely with whole bunches. 25% was raised in new oak barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 18.5

Recommended drinking from 2027-2041

£440 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GEVREY-CHAMBERTIN 1ER CRU LA ROMANÉE MONOPOLE

Gevrey-Chambertin’s La Romanée is a premier cru high on the slope, beside a side-valley or combe, which delivers cooling breezes. The domaine has one hectare of vines here, with an average age of over 60 years. Half of the plot was originally planted to Chardonnay before being replaced with Pinot Noir in the 60s. Very shallow soils just 50cm over a gravel and limestone bedrock, making for a naturally low-yielding plot. Rich, dark fruit, which feels old and venerable, sustained by fabulous freshness and grippy tannins on the finish. 15 barrels were made in 2022.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2027-2037

£525 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CLOS DE VOUGEOT AUX ORIGINES GRAND CRU

Domaine du Couvent has two plots in the Clos de Vougeot planted in 1950. The smallest plot is in the lower part of the Clos whilst the second, and largest, is close to Vosne-Romanée near the holding of Liger-Belair. Philippe makes three cuvées with a view to possibly releasing them separately. But, so far, he has not made the move. Six barrels were made in 2022. Just 25% is vinified with whole bunches. A wine of sucrosity and red berries with a fabulous suppleness and juiciness framed by those firm Vougeot tannins. 50% aged in new barrels.

Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2027-2043

£875 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHARMES-CHAMBERTIN GRAND CRU AUX MAZOYÈRES

We know this Charmes-Chambertin of old, it having been the top wine of Domaine des Varoilles. Philippe Chéron has coaxed out its refined side, limiting new oak and extraction and adapting to the vintage. Domaine du Couvent has 0.38 hectares, situated on the calcareous soils the upper part of Chambertin. Six and a half barrels were produced in 2022. Fine rose petal perfume with great limestone tension on the palate holding together the charming and tender raspberry fruit. Entirely destemmed in 2022.

Corney & Barrow Score 18+

Recommended drinking from 2029-2042

£875 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

Domaine du Couvent

The Domaine

THE 2022 VINTAGE

In-Bond / Retail products