INTRODUCTION
The property’s trajectory is upwards and continues at some pace.
I’ve said it before - there is nothing more exciting for us than introducing a new estate, particularly if it is one that traces its history back to 1290. By “new” I mean re-born, re-focused. This, our third offer is the result of my third visit (second with Thibaut), all since Covid, to Ridolfi.
The pace of change and yet patience at the same time is often what strikes me most. Brunello di Montalcino has always been a region we have kept very close tabs on. In Ridolfi what we believe we have found is a very specific, quality minded estate with finesse at the heart of what they do. The number of wines is logical, each having its place.
A quick reminder as to how the relationship started: first, we were approached by Arber Shabani (Sales Manager) for possible representation in Hong Kong where we proudly represent both Soldera, Il Marroneto and now Le Ragnaie. Thibaut Mathieu, our French Italophile MD in Asia, kindly set up a call and tasting with Arber at the estate. Before we knew it, we were having a Zoom tasting together; Arber in Montalcino, the Hong Kong team at their office and me in London - all very “Covid friendly”. Then, with a chink in the armour of Covid restrictions appearing, I was on my way to Italy – this trip was also followed up by a visit in September 2022 with Thibaut!
With Arber already having visited the C&B teams in Singapore, London, North of England and Scotland as well as Thibaut and I having tasted from botti in the barrel cellar (where 4 different coopers are used), it is safe to say the whole company is more than a little taken with the estate. I just hope I can convey the sense of the excitement the team and I feel around these wines.
Enjoy the offer and most of all – tuck some cases away!!
WILL HARGROVE
HEAD OF FINE WINE
OCTOBER 2023
The Estate
The estate’s history traces back to 1290. Three Ridolfi families stem from an ancient Tuscan lineage. One of these – the Ridolfi of Borgo – originated the Sienese branch called “dalla Contrada”. That is the Ridolfi family that gives their name and crest to this estate in Montalcino.
The estate was bought in 2011 by Giuseppe Valter Peretti, owner of the Rocchetto estate in Larciano in Chianti, about twenty kilometres south of Pistoia. In 2014 Gianni Maccari joined as winemaker after a long time (14 years) working at the esteemed Poggio di Sotto. He is now joined by his son Filippo who has just finished his winemaking and vineyard studies. In 2021, this estate was named by the Gambero Rosso as one of Italy’s “up and coming estates”.
THE VINEYARDS
The Estate is situated in the locality of “Mercatali”, which during the 5th and 6th centuries marked the hub of a large annual market. In fact, a three-floor section made of stone that dates back to that era is still preserved in one of the farmhouses. It rises on the slope of a hill in the very heart of Tuscany, 300 metres above sea level near the famous “Brunello Road”.
The estate comprises 30 hectares of land, 11.4 of which dedicated to Brunello vines, 6.5 hectares to Chianti Colli Senesi and 1 hectare to Rosso di Montalcino, plus 700 olive trees of the Correggiolo variety.
All the Ridolfi vineyards are on the North-East slope of the Montalcino hill. Medium texture soils rich in clay, marine fossils and, in the highest part, Alberese (weathered sandstone). The clones used are mainly suited for long ageing. Vines that are more than 15 years of age are trained with the spurred cordon system using the two-bud pruning with four spurs technique. Vines planted after 2013 are trained using the simple Guyot technique. The bunches are thinned three times throughout the season: during the setting phase, the véraison phase and towards the end of the ripening. Full organic certification is well underway.
THE CELLARS
In 2014 the Ridolfi wine cellar was completely renovated and extended, while respecting the original configuration of the village of Mercatale. All the grapes are picked by hand and selected firstly in the vineyard and then in the cellar on a roller table after being destemmed. The berries are not pressed but fermented whole in controlled temperature stainless steel tanks that never exceed 27°C. Only native yeasts are used.
The high quality of the grapes allows a very long maceration period: at least 60 days. The aim is to gently extract the colour and polyphenols, using only pumping over and délestage operations (around four times for each tank, spread out over 24 hours). Malolactic fermentation is carried out in steel tanks. Each wine is raised a little differently in terms of timings, so I have put the differences against each wine in the tasting notes.
*When Thibaut and I visited last month (September 2023) there was a rather large hole in the ground by the winery, this is for new cellar space and primarily to facilitate the reds being fermented in raw concrete vats (from the 2024 harvest) rather than stainless steel.
WHEN AND HOW TO DRINK THE WINES OF RIDOLFI
Personally, I feel the biggest missed opportunity occurs when people assume these are bold, rich wines that “have” to be aged for extended time.
Brunello, especially when aged in botti rather than barriques, gives wines that are gorgeous at almost any stage of their evolution. Tasting from botti convinces me of that. They will age exceptionally well but to not drink these wines in youth, as well as with age, is an error. The Rosso offers a real chance to get a feel for the estate but should certainly not be viewed as “Junior”.
Whether to decant or not is often a personal choice. There is, until the wines are at least decade old, no practical (sediment) reason to decant. I would serve from the bottle but pour early and enjoy the wine developing in the glass. As I always find myself saying, it is better to start with the wine a shade cool, 13-14 degrees.
In terms of glassware, I would say that a relatively rounded bowl works best, but both Bordeaux and Burgundy shape are suitable, slight personal preference for the latter.
PODCAST
C&B’s Podcast - Behind the Label: Ridolfi, our Italian exclusivity
This podcast features Arber Shabani, Sales Manager at the Ridolfi winery in Brunello di Montalcino.
In this episode we explore this exciting estate - which dates back to 1290, its Montalcino wines and the unusual style, which sets them apart from other wines in the area.
THE WINES
2021
As I wrote last year - 2019, 2020 & 2021 is certainly an exciting trio. What became apparent in this trip to several producers in the region is that the 2021 may be the most harmonious of all. It was, from a meteorological standpoint, almost boring. The vines struggled enough but not too much and any excess heat or water were only noticeable by their absence.
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2021
I so wish the production here was so much bigger. The grapes are de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks with about 50 days of maceration. The ageing is 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels with a capacity of 25-35 hl, and then at least 4 months of bottle ageing. Translucent, almost raspberry red in colour to the core. This is both lushly full fruited and focused. The fruit explodes out of the glass, ripe red berries and real lift. Lovely open texture with good invigorating acidity. Some mild spice on the mid-palate. Refined and uber-fresh with good length. Almost ridiculous value. 14.5%
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029+
2018
The winter of 2017/2018 was one of the coldest in recent times. February and March saw below zero temperatures. April was very dry, May and June saw lots of rain, forcing teams into the vineyards to fight off diseases. July then brought hail in some areas. August was hot but not too extreme then cooler temperatures and some rain returned in the later part of September to slow the ripening. In summary, good ingredients not necessarily in the right order – one where the good producers prosper.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018
Fermented and macerated for 60 days in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 26 degrees. The ageing is 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and then at least 12 months of bottle ageing. There will be no Riserva in 2018 so those botti (large barrels) are already in here. Clear translucent colour with red and a hint of tawny. Wonderful lifted expressive nose. Open with some spice and a herbal resinous character. Good red fruit with some slightly degraded fruit – tar and roses almost. A really good succulent character. Complex with good grip. Really very good. 14%
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2031
£95/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “DONNA REBECCA” 2018
A selection of grapes which are picked, fermented and aged separately. Winemaking is in the Vinification Intégrale process with full berries placed in specific small barrels expressly made by Tonnellerie Baron. Fermented and macerated for 90 days at a controlled temperature of 26 degrees. Daily bâtonnage through barrel rotation. 30 months in barriques and 18 months in bottle. Very much a different “beast”. Rich and nicely perfumed on the nose, some spice but then lots of red fruit to balance. A bit of light tobacco with savoury notes. There is a real equilibrium here which is often very tricky to achieve in barriques. A “refined decadence” might be a good descriptor. Recommended. 14.5% - to be allocated.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2033+
2017
A relatively cool and showery start to the season turned extremely warm and dry. This dryness and warmth continued into the summer; it promised an early harvest although thankfully the beginning of September did bring some rain to add an element of plushness to the small crop. Hands on producers with rigorous selection (as here) are the ones to follow.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA “MERCATALE” 2017
Fermented and macerated for 60 days in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 26 degrees. The ageing is 55 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and then at least 12 months of bottle ageing. As last year this is very pale to the rim, tawny more than anything. A little dash of lifted mint freshness. There is real precision here. An intensity strikes me and belies the pale, elegant colour. A wine for drinking early or late. More weight and texture come through on the palate almost by stealth. Recommended. 14% - to be allocated.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 -18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2034+
RIDOLFI2021, 2018, 2017
Wine Region
Montalcino, Tuscany
Vineyard
30 hectares
I’ve said it before - there is nothing more exciting for us than introducing a new estate, particularly if it is one that traces its history back to 1290. By “new” I mean re-born, re-focused. This, our third offer is the result of my third visit (second with Thibaut), all since Covid, to Ridolfi.
The pace of change and yet patience at the same time is often what strikes me most. Brunello di Montalcino has always been a region we have kept very close tabs on. In Ridolfi what we believe we have found is a very specific, quality minded estate with finesse at the heart of what they do. The number of wines is logical, each having its place.
A quick reminder as to how the relationship started: first, we were approached by Arber Shabani (Sales Manager) for possible representation in Hong Kong where we proudly represent both Soldera, Il Marroneto and now Le Ragnaie. Thibaut Mathieu, our French Italophile MD in Asia, kindly set up a call and tasting with Arber at the estate. Before we knew it, we were having a Zoom tasting together; Arber in Montalcino, the Hong Kong team at their office and me in London - all very “Covid friendly”. Then, with a chink in the armour of Covid restrictions appearing, I was on my way to Italy – this trip was also followed up by a visit in September 2022 with Thibaut!
With Arber already having visited the C&B teams in Singapore, London, North of England and Scotland as well as Thibaut and I having tasted from botti in the barrel cellar (where 4 different coopers are used), it is safe to say the whole company is more than a little taken with the estate. I just hope I can convey the sense of the excitement the team and I feel around these wines. Enjoy the offer and most of all – tuck some cases away!!
WILL HARGROVE
HEAD OF FINE WINE
OCTOBER 2023
THE VINEYARDS
THE CELLARS
WHEN AND HOW TO DRINK THE WINES OF RIDOLFI
WHEN AND HOW TO DRINK THE WINES OF RIDOLFI
Personally, I feel the biggest missed opportunity occurs when people assume these are bold, rich wines that “have” to be aged for extended time.
Brunello, especially when aged in botti rather than barriques, gives wines that are gorgeous at almost any stage of their evolution. Tasting from botti convinces me of that. That will age exceptionally well but to not drink these wines in youth, as well as with age, is an error. The Rosso offers a real chance to get a feel for the estate but should certainly not be viewed as “Junior”. Whether to decant or not is often a personal choice. There is, until the wines are at least decade old, no practical (sediment) reason to decant. I would serve from the bottle but pour early and enjoy the wine developing in the glass. As I always find myself saying, it is better to start with the wine a shade cool, 13-14 degrees. In terms of glassware, I would say that a relatively rounded bowl works best, but both Bordeaux and Burgundy shape are suitable, slight personal preference for the latter.
2021
As I wrote last year - 2019, 2020 & 2021 is certainly an exciting trio. What became apparent in this trip to several producers in the region is that the 2021 may be the most harmonious of all. It was, from a meteorological standpoint, almost boring. The vines struggled enough but not too much, and any excess heat or water were only noticeable by their absence.
ROSSO DI MONTALCINO 2021
I so wish the production here was so much bigger. The grapes are de-stemmed and fermented in stainless steel tanks with about 50 days of maceration. The ageing is 12 months in large Slavonian oak barrels with a capacity of 25-35 hl, and then at least 4 months of bottle ageing. Translucent, almost raspberry red in colour to the core. This is both lushly full fruited and focused. The fruit explodes out of the glass, ripe red berries and real lift. Lovely open texture with good invigorating acidity. Some mild spice on the mid-palate. Refined and uber-fresh with good length. Almost ridiculous value. 14.5%
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2029+
£140/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
2018
As I wrote last year - 2019, 2020 & 2021 is certainly an exciting trio. What became apparent in this trip to several producers in the region is that the 2021 may be the most harmonious of all. It was, from a meteorological standpoint, almost boring. The vines struggled enough but not too much, and any excess heat or water were only noticeable by their absence.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO 2018
Fermented and macerated for 60 days in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 26 degrees. The ageing is 36 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and then at least 12 months of bottle ageing. There will be no Riserva in 2018 so those botti (large barrels) are already in here. Clear translucent colour with red and a hint of tawny. Wonderful lifted expressive nose. Open with some spice and a herbal resinous character. Good red fruit with some slightly degraded fruit – tar and roses almost. A really good succulent character. Complex with good grip. Really very good. 14%
Corney & Barrow Score 17 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2023–2031
£245/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
£95/CASE OF 1 MAGNUM, IN BOND UK
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO “DONNA REBECCA” 2018
A selection of grapes which are picked, fermented and aged separately. Winemaking is in the Vinification Intégrale process with full berries placed in specific small barrels expressly made by Tonnellerie Baron. Fermented and macerated for 90 days at a controlled temperature of 26 degrees. Daily bâtonnage through barrel rotation. 30 months in barriques and 18 months in bottle. Very much a different “beast”. Rich and nicely perfumed on the nose, some spice but then lots of red fruit to balance. A bit of light tobacco with savoury notes. There is a real equilibrium here which is often very tricky to achieve in barriques. A “refined decadence” might be a good descriptor. Recommended. 14.5% to be allocated.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18
Recommended drinking from 2024–2033+
£545/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK
2017
As I wrote last year - 2019, 2020 & 2021 is certainly an exciting trio. What became apparent in this trip to several producers in the region is that the 2021 may be the most harmonious of all. It was, from a meteorological standpoint, almost boring. The vines struggled enough but not too much, and any excess heat or water were only noticeable by their absence.
BRUNELLO DI MONTALCINO RISERVA “MERCATALE” 2017
Fermented and macerated for 60 days in stainless steel tanks at a temperature of 26 degrees. The ageing is 55 months in large Slavonian oak barrels and then at least 12 months of bottle ageing. As last year this is very pale to the rim, tawny more than anything. A little dash of lifted mint freshness. There is real precision here. An intensity strikes me and belies the pale, elegant colour. A wine for drinking early or late. More weight and texture come through on the palate almost by stealth. Recommended. 14% to be allocated.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 -18
Recommended drinking from 2025–2034+
£475/CASE OF 6 BOTTLES, IN BOND UK