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Wine Region

Rhône, France

Vineyard

Tardieu-Laurent

It has always baffled me how Tardieu-Laurent manage to create such soulful and expressive wines across the length and breadth of the Rhône valley’s grandest terroir.



 In mid-October this year, Bastien Tardieu (winemaker) kindly hosted a series of tastings as well as a wonderful private customer dinner to give us an insight into how this all happens. Bastien spoke candidly about how the long-term relationships with growers—many of which began under Bastien’s father Michel — underpin the micro-négociant, but also how the relationships have changed as the key appellations of the Rhône have gained notoriety. Crucially, Bastien spoke about how the estate and its partners have adapted to climate change, and how many of their growers are exploring new farming methods to manage the warmer summers, earlier frosts and more unpredictable weather.


What hasn’t changed is Bastien’s belief that lower intervention winemaking produces wines of elegance, freshness and terroir transparency. Whole cluster fermentation remains a hallmark of the estate, but one sensitivity deployed when the vintage allows it. The overwhelming conclusion from Bastien’s visit was that Tardieu Laurent remains a reference point for the region from Côte-Rôtie in the north, to Châteauneuf-du-Pape in the South. These are joyous wines of honesty and character and should be a part of any great cellar.

NEVILLE KIRKPATRICK
FINE WINE TEAM

WHITE - SOUTHERN RHÔNE

The whites of the Southern Rhône are very balanced, with brightness and harmony on the palate.

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE BLANC NOBLES ORIGINES

Nobles Origines is a blend of the northern and southern Rhône. 30% Viognier, 20% Grenache Blanc (70+ years old), 20% Clairette, 15% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne (60+ years old). These declassified crus grapes include a third from Crozes-Hermitage, with some Lirac and Vacqueyras. 100% barrel fermentation fills out the body nicely. Nutty and substantial, this is an assertive wine, with white peach fruit and a cedary richness, coming to a salty, textured finish. Aged for six months in new, one- and two-year old barrels. 13.5% abv.  


Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17

Recommended drinking from 2025-2028

£105/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VACQUEYRAS BLANC

20% Grenache Blanc, 20% Roussanne, 20% Clairette, 15% Marsanne, 15% Viognier and 10% Bourboulenc. The Marsanne, Roussanne and Viognier are co-vinified, as are the Grenache, Clairette and Bourboulenc. Then the two cuvées are blended. A multifaceted nose of white peppery aromas, with grapefruit, honeysuckle, hay, fresh mint and dried provençal herbs. The rich limestone soils of Vacqueyras come through in the salty palate, which has a lovely tactile sense of extract. White Vacqueyras is still something of a rarity but this is worth seeking out. Certified organic. Fermented and aged for six months in two- and three-year old barrels. 13.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 17+

Recommended drinking from 2025-2028

£130/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES

From three sites around Châteauneuf. 30% Grenache Blanc (60+ years old), 30% Clairette, 25% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc and 5% Piquepoul. After 2022’s hail in Châteauneuf, 2023 was once again hit but with far less damage, making for an easier season. Tasted from bottle, two months after bottling in May 2024. A spicy, white peppery nose with orange rind and dried herbs. The palate is pure and crystalline, the wet-stone minerality refreshed by grapefruit and tangy acidity. Lovely wine of verve and character. Fermented and aged for nine months in new, one- and two-year old barrels. 13.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2025-2029

£230/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RED - SOUTHERN RHÔNE

Syrah exceeded expectations with expressive fruit and restrained style, whilst old vine Grenache has proven to be racy and precise.

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE, NOBLES ORIGINES

Nobles Origines comes from declassified cru holdings, across various southern Rhône villages, including Rasteau, Vacqueyras and Beaumes-de-Venise, with the majority from Lirac, on the western side of the Rhône. 65% Grenache (50+ years old), 25% Syrah (40+ years old, from Rasteau) and 10% Mourvèdre (30-40 years old). Smoky dark-berried aromas, leading into a palate of muscular berry fruit with firm, grippy tannins and bitter chocolate. More ageworthy than the (charming) Cuvée Speciale. One third whole bunches were used, as usual. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels, then for eight months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 17

Recommended drinking from 2026-2031

£105/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CÔTES-DU-RHÔNE CUVÉE SPÉCIALE

This is a 100% whole bunch vinification of 95% Grenache and 5% ‘other’, from 70-year-old vines on the border of the Châteauneuf appellation. Spicy aromas of fresh mint and pepper, leading into a palate of supple, luminous Grenache fruit which has more than a passing resemblance to Pinot Noir. Melded tannins and chocolatey richness on the finish. The sandy soils here make for a delicate, fine wine. It spends eight months in two- and three-year-old barrels, then ten months in foudres. 14.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2026-2030

£105/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

RASTEAU VIEILLES VIGNES

70% Grenache (the vines of which are a magnificent 80 years old), 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre (both ‘only’ 40 years old). The warmest place in the southern Rhône, Rasteau is also rich in clay, aiding water retention. 300m of elevation here further moderates the heat. Delectable bitter cherry and blackberry aromas. The palate is succulent and juicy, with a tangy, salty precision to the back-palate bringing freshness. The oldest vines here are over a century old, planted in 1921. Part comes from a site called La Montagne, at 300 metres of elevation. One third whole-bunch vinified. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels, then for a further 10 months in foudres. 14.5% abv.  


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5+

Recommended drinking from 2028-2034

£125/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

VACQUEYRAS VIEILLES VIGNES

If Rasteau is flirtatious, Vacqueyras, known as the ‘Cornas of the south’, can be earthier and more leathered – it is the driest part of the southern Rhône. Half of this comes from sandy soils which, in combination with cool sites, lend a silkiness to the tannins. 70% Grenache (over 60 years old), 15% Syrah and 15% Mourvèdre (40 years old). Violets, tobacco leaf and dried leather aromas, with bitter cherry and chocolate – a nose of personality. The palate is silky and refined, with fine, “civilised” tannins (Bastien’s word). Two-thirds whole-bunch fermentation. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels before a further 10 months in foudres. 14.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2027-2031+

£135/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

GIGONDAS VIEILLES VIGNES

This old vine Gigondas cuvée comes from five plots in Gigondas, at around 400 metres of altitude, from the Dentelles foothills. 90% Grenache, 5% Syrah and 5% Mourvèdre, ranging from 40 to over 100 years old. 75% whole-bunch fermented. Classy dark-fruited nose. All from the Dentelles mountains. As Bastien said, “this is my kind of wine.” Orange peel, garrigue, chocolatey dark berry and cherry fruit, framed by elegant, silky tannins. Aged for 10 months in one- and two-year-old barrels and then 12 months in old oak foudres. 14.5% abv.  


Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2030-2038

£165/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£180/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE VIEILLES VIGNES

This comes from six plots in Châteauneuf. 80% Grenache, 15% Mourvèdre, 5% Syrah. The Grenache, which is from 80-100-year-old vines, is evident in a spicy, tender raspberry-fruited nose. The palate is saturated with melded, supple red berry fruit, depicted by quite grippy, fine tannins. Lovely wine, the best Châteauneuf Vieilles Vignes I have tasted here. Or as Bastien put it, “The last vintage of this quality we had in the cellar was 2016.” Half destemmed, half whole-bunch. 14.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2028-2040

£295/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CUVÉE SPÉCIALE

Made from century-old vines at the base of La Crau on sandy soils, this is effectively a Grenache-only Châteauneuf (with 1% “other varieties” due to historic inter-planting). As always, it is 100% whole-bunch fermented. A rich, elegant nose of raspberry fruit, oriental spices and orange peel. The palate is silky-fine, with enough spicy fieriness to keep things interesting, but coming down decisively on the side of elegance. The finish is seductive, supported by fine, supple tannins. A personal favourite. Aged for one year in old oak barrels and then a further year in foudre. 14.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 18+

Recommended drinking from 2030-2040+

£325/ case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£340/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

BANDOL

95% Mourvèdre, 5% Grenache. This is from 50+ year-old vines, 100% destemmed. We usually don’t get to taste Bandol as it requires a year and a half in barrel after fermentation in its region of origin. The so-called ‘Bordeaux of the south’, Bandol is rich and inky black in colour. Black olive, bitter cherry and tobacco, with a juicy freshness and honest tannic presence. A wine of both density and freshness, this is one of the most compelling Bandols I remember tasting here. Aged for 24 months in one- and two-year-old barrels. 14% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2030-2040

£150/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

WHITE - NORTHERN RHÔNE

The whites of the Southern Rhône are very balanced, with brightness and harmony on the palate.

CROZES-HERMITAGE BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES

80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne, from three different sites, with an average age of over 50 years. From the northern part of Crozes, on granite slopes. Yellow flower perfume with pithy citrus rind. The palate is juicy and acid-driven, with salty, ‘granitic’ minerality. This spends eight months in a combination of new and used barrels, then is very lightly filtered, with no fining. 13.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 17

Recommended drinking from 2025-2028

£160/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

SAINT-JOSEPH BLANC VIEILLES VIGNES

85% Marsanne and 15% Roussanne, from three different sites, aged 30-40 years. Bottled one week before tasting, in July 2024. A characterful nose of dried herbs and fresh mint. The palate is elegant and even steely, with firm structure (those hard granite soils?) and textural saltiness. 2023 is the fifth vintage of the white St-Joseph, which is a mix of the north and south of the appellation. Bastien calls this a “gastronomic” wine. Fermented and aged for 12 months in a mixture of new and used barrels. Bottled after a very light filtration, without fining. 13.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2025-2029

£175/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

SAINT-PÉRAY VIEILLES VIGNES

Bastien Tardieu calls this “the little Hermitage Blanc”. Two-thirds Marsanne (from 50 to well over 100 years old) and one-third Roussanne (40+ years old). A mix of granite and chalky soils. Tasted a couple of weeks after the malolactic finished. 2005 was the first vintage, following which the popularity of this cuvée has boomed. The trademark bacon fat richness on the nose, with a full-bodied palate of salty extract and white peach fruit. This lives up to Bastien’s nickname for it of ‘little Hermitage’. Fermented and aged for 12 months in a mixture of new and one-year-old barrels. 13.5% abv. There are a generous 12 barrels of St-Péray this year.


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18

Recommended drinking from 2025-2029

£180/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CONDRIEU

100% Viognier, from six plots in Condrieu, the vines for which are 50 years old. This is from mostly north-facing plots, making for a cooler iteration of Condrieu. Expressive aromas of grape, apple and pear, with apricot and orange blossom – very pure. The palate is tactile – silkily textured, with the nose’s pure fruit flavours continuing through to a salty, potent finish. Bottled just over a month ago, when tasted in July 2024. Although this will age, I would be tempted to enjoy it on the younger side. Fermented and aged for 10 months in new and one-year old barrels. 14% abv.  


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 

Recommended drinking from 2025-2030

£240/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

HERMITAGE BLANC

80% Marsanne and 20% Roussanne. The Marsanne is over 50 years old, whilst the Roussanne is over 40 years old. Rich and powerful aromas of honeysuckle and apricot, although the real point of this wine is the majestic structure and heft – the compressed potential of pear, saffron, cinnamon and coiled salty minerality. The Montrachet of the Rhône! According to a proverb about white Hermitage, “The older it gets, the younger it looks.” Either drink this young or age it for 8-10 years. Fermented and aged for 12 months in new and one-year old barrels, then transferred for another year to Stockinger Austrian foudres. A third new oak. As Bastien said, “We age this for two years, as we consider it to be like a red in terms of structure.” 13.5% abv.


Corney & Barrow Score 18 

Recommended drinking from 2026-2036+

£310 /case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£325/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

RED - NORTHERN RHÔNE

Syrah exceeded expectations with expressive fruit and restrained style, whilst old vine Grenache has proven to be racy and precise.

SAINT-JOSEPH VIEILLES VIGNES

100% Syrah and Serine, Serine being an ancient clone of Syrah, the berries of which are more oval-shaped and less deeply pigmented than Syrah. The former vines are over 60 years old, the latter 100-120 years old! 50% whole-bunch fermentation. Violet aromas, leading into a palate of juicy, poised dark berry fruit, that northern Rhône sappy lift, with a playful delicacy. More discreet than the Crozes but also more serious. Aged for 12 months in new and one year old barrels, then eight months in foudres. 13% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5 - 18

Recommended drinking from 2027-2033

£185/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CROZES-HERMITAGE VIEILLES VIGNES

100% Syrah/Serine, from 60-year-old vines. There is one third whole bunch fermentation here. This comes from two sites, both on decomposed granitic slopes: Gervans and Les Méjeans, the same terroirs as the white Crozes. White peppery spice aromas, leading into a medium-bodied palate of upbeat freshness and exotic spices. This has finesse and a certain clipped precision. Following fermentation, it is aged for 12 months in new and one-year-old barrels, then spends six months in foudres. 13% abv. Note to self to buy this…!  


Corney & Barrow Score 17.5

Recommended drinking from 2026-2032

£160/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CORNAS

Cornas is known as the vin noir, and you can see why as soon as you pour it – inky and glass-staining, with a bright purple rim. 100% Syrah/Serine, 60 to 100 years old. It comes from three prime plots, including Les Chaillots, Les Reynards and Les Savaux, on typical granite soils. 50% whole-bunch fermentation. Juicy and sauvage. It is aged for 12 months in new and one year-old barrels, then spends another 12 months in foudres. 13.5% abv.  


Corney & Barrow Score 16.5 - 17

Recommended drinking from 2028-2038

£245/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CORNAS VIEILLES VIGNES

The vieilles vignes version of the vin noir is similarly inky-dark in the glass, with bright purple tints. Bacon fat and blackberry, with a juicy palate and grippy, fine, fruit-coated tannins. Dried tobacco leaf and admirable freshness, with a broad grip to the tannins aided by a graphitey texture. Lots of patience required. Three quarters whole-bunch vinified. Aged for two years in new and one-year-old barrels. This comes from just two producers. Only four barrels were produced. 13.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 18

Recommended drinking from 2028-2038

£355/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

CÔTE-RÔTIE VIEILLES VIGNES

At the core of the Côte-Rôtie VV are very old vines in La Landonne, in the Côte Brune, which provide a dense, ferrous mineral bedrock. The Côte Blonde sites Lancement and La Chavaroche add the top-notes, the violets and light peppery spices. The average vine age is 60-70 years old. Bacon, graphite, liquorice, violets and white pepper on the nose. The palate is immediate, almost Pinot-like in its purity and ease of tender dark berry fruit. Lots of retro perfume. Pure blackberries, blueberries and bitter chocolate, framed by fine, supple tannins. 100% whole-bunch vinified in 2023. This gets a full two years of ageing: 12 months in new and one year-old barrels, then a further 12 months in foudres. 13% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 18.5

Recommended drinking from 2028-2041

£395/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK

HERMITAGE

The aristocrat of the line-up, Tardieu-Laurent’s Hermitage comes from four plots, including the prestigious Le Méal, at the beginning of the slope. 100% Serine/Syrah, from 60-year-old vines. Aromatically, its cards are close to its chest – grilled meats and white pepper. The palate is fresh and darkly, inkily-fruited, with refined, fruit-coated tannins. Somewhat inscrutable, hence the score range. Aged for a year in new and one year-old barrels, then for another year in foudres. One third whole bunch fermentation. 13.5% abv. 


Corney & Barrow Score 18 - 19

Recommended drinking from 2030-2045

£375/case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
£390/case of 3 magnums, in bond UK

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