By Aaran Eccles
I don’t think it will come as a surprise to anyone that we are Burgundy lovers at Corney & Barrow. We are forever keeping our ears to the ground and eyes peeled when it comes to up-and-coming estates in Burgundy, and it’s a great privilege to be able to visit the Côte d’Or frequently to see how the region is evolving.
It seems clear that there is a renewed sense of zeitgeist sweeping through the region and there are certainly producers at estates we work closely with who are pushing the boundaries of quality. A new generation has been taking over the reins at many a domaine, and it is strikingly clear that those with quality holdings are kicking things up a notch. In the vineyard, biodynamics have become the norm to ensure that vines are healthy and balanced, producing pristine fruit. Whilst in the cellar, winemakers are harnessing the natural energy of their plots to make wines that sing with freshness and have verve and texture.
Having recently returned from Burgundy, I tasted many Pinot Noirs which were the perfect introduction for someone looking to explore the region. At the root of tasting we want to find something which will provide delicious drinking with a fantastic family story behind it, and therefore it is great to highlight the best of the new and young(ish) faces that are making us so excited about the new era. The wines have ascended to a new level and it’s a joy to be able to shout about how delicious they are!
Domaines to Watch
Based in Nuits-Saint-Georges, the Chéron family were joint owners of Domaine des Varoilles before absorbing the holdings in 2020 to form Domaine du Couvent. Paul Chéron has increasingly taken over the reins from his father Phillipe from 2020 and the wines have unctuous fruit and haunting perfume. Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux is a plot which used to form part of Henri Jayer’s Vosne-Romanée Village, so this is quite hallowed terroir above Richebourg! Paul believes whole bunch ferments should be dialled down on limestone soils as is the case here, leading to mineral-driven, pristine blackberry fruit.
Vosne-Romanée Les Barreaux Domaine du Couvent 2022
Domaine du Couvent
Juliette Puyperoux and Jean Orsini gave up city life in 2019 to establish Puy de l’Ours in Savigny-lès-Beaune. Juliette is from Burgundy and her family retained their estate’s vineyards and rented out the land from 2004, before the 3.5 hectares were reclaimed by Jean and Juliette and the domaine started to take shape. The Pinots are bright and cherry-laden with Clos des Godeaux being totally destemmed, this is pure fruit Pinot and sappy tannins, everything delightful Savigny-lès -Beaune should be. Louise Lachaux helps design the couple’s label ideas artfully.
Savigny-lès-Beaune Clos des Godeaux Domaine du Puy de L’Ours 2023
Domaine du Puy de L’Ours
The domaine of Gevrey-Chambertin I am most excited about, three generations are actively involved at the estate presently, with Pierre and Louis Trapet (younger than me) being the bright young presences advising Jean-Louis. The holdings of the domaine are as good as it gets in Gevrey, all the way from village to grand cru, but there is a maniacal dedication to quality with the domaine spending over a million euros in the vineyard recently to convert the vines to echalas staking. The wines are magnificent: luminous fruit and soaring perfumes with textured tannins. I’ve added two wines here as you need to taste the quality and enjoy.
Gevrey-Chambertin Domaine Trapet Père et Fils 2022
Bourgogne Rouge Domaine Trapet Père et Fils 2022
Domaine Trapet
Sarah and Guillaume Glantenay represent the fourth generation of a domaine that traces its roots back to the 17th century. The family have vineyards across Volnay, Pommard and Chambolle-Musigny and are mostly focussed on reds, with 90% of the vineyards planted with Pinot Noir. The Volnay Vielles Vignes is where I see the sustainable methods the brother and sister use gaining traction, old vines being carefully cultivated to give a Volnay of depth, with black and red fruit and fine, fresh acids. Volnay and Pommard are always so underrated so it’s a joy to see this family showcasing the villages.
Volnay Vieilles Vignes Domaine Georges Glantenay 2022
Domaine Georges Glantenay
A new addition to our range from Pernand-Vergelesses, Jean-Baptiste took over his family domaine in 2017 and has 6.5ha around the hill of Corton. Jean-Baptiste makes some wonderful Grand Crus, but the Savigny-lès-Beaune is a perfect starting point to see his style of winemaking. Black forest fruits, supple tannins, fresh acids — a lovely drinker for the table!
Savigny-lès-Beaune Domaine Jean-Baptiste Boudier 2022
Domaine Jean-Baptiste Boudier
Read our 2024 vintage report here