Approx. read time: 8 minutes
“Old vines” — a simple, presumably self-explanatory term that is anything but. A wine labelled “old vine” (or vieilles vignes) is made from grapes grown on old vines — we can say that much.
But what constitutes “old”? Well, nobody can quite agree on this and there is no universal legal definition, so it can differ from producer to producer and region to region. There are some who would consider vines with the tender age of 20 to be worthy of the definition, while others might not consider any vine “old” until it has celebrated its 70th birthday.
What is for certain, however, is that old vines are extremely rare, particularly in Europe. This is because in the nineteenth century the Phylloxera epidemic wiped out most vineyards on the continent. In addition, old vines produce less fruit, and less fruit impacts profitability for producers, therefore most vines will be dug up and replaced once no longer profitable. Old vines attract passionate winemakers, those who understand and appreciate their quality and potential, and are willing to compromise profitability to celebrate and protect them.
With the help of two of our producers who cultivate particularly old vines, we will explain why old wines are so special, how they fit into a more sustainability-conscious world, and why they should be nurtured, protected and celebrated.
Joostenberg Estate is a small, family-run winery in Muldersvlei, South Africa, on the border of Paarl and Stellenbosch. First established in the late 1600s, the estate was bought in 1879 by the Myburgh family, and they have run it ever since. They also produce the Myburgh Bros range of wines at the Joostenberg Estate. Their Chenin Blanc vines were planted in 1982 (43 years old) and are used for their Die Agteros Chenin Blanc and Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest wines. Myburgh Bros’ old vines are also Chenin Blanc, one vineyard was planted in 1984 (41 years old) and the other in 1987 (39 years old).
Producteurs Plaimont brings together a group of like-minded winegrowers. Founded in 1979 in Gascony, France, the cooperative is renowned for its pioneering projects to resurrect long-lost grape varieties and restore old vineyards. They have three plots of pre-phylloxeric vines (vines that survived the deadly Phylloxera epidemic that swept across Europe in the nineteenth century, devastating most vineyards). The oldest is over 270 years old! DNA testing revealed that the vines, previously thought to be Tannat, were in fact peppered with ancient varieties thought to have died out. Two notable examples are Manseng Noir and Tardif, both native to Gascony and the Pyrenees foothills. Such old vines are exceptionally rare in Europe, but it is thought that they were spared from the Phylloxera epidemic thanks to the Phylloxera-resistant sandy soils.
What do they grow and how old are they?
Joostenberg Estate’s Chenin Blanc vines were planted in 1989 (36 years old) and are used for their Die Agteros Chenin Blanc and Chenin Blanc Noble Late Harvest wines. Myburgh Bros’ old vines are also Chenin Blanc, one vineyard was planted in 1984 (41 years old) and the other in 1987 (39 years old).
Plaimont have three plots of pre-phylloxeric vines (vines that survived the deadly Phylloxera epidemic that swept across Europe in the nineteenth century, devastating most vineyards). The oldest is over 270 years old! DNA testing revealed that the vines, previously thought to be Tannat, were in fact peppered with ancient varieties thought to have died out. Two notable examples are Manseng Noir and Tardif, both native to Gascony and the Pyrenees foothills.
What is so special about old vines?
The fact that old vines have withstood the test of time (and the environmental challenges, disease and changing climate that brings) is impressive in itself, and there is arguably a certain romanticism associated with their history, resilience, and longevity. It is also widely believed that wines produced using fruit from old vines simply taste better. There are several theories for this, one of which is that older vines’ lower yields lead to increased concentration in each grape, as there aren’t numerous bunches fighting over the vine’s limited resources!
A representative from Plaimont and Tyrrel Myburgh, head winemaker at Joostenberg, share their thoughts from a winemaking perspective:
Joostenberg: On a purely emotional and aesthetic level, I love the way it links to the past and implies a deep respect for the land and the environment. The fact that they are still in the ground and haven’t been pulled out means that they have proven their suitability over time. The wines from old vineyards tend to have a textural quality that young vines don’t always attain.
Plaimont: To start with, old vines need to be appreciated before the grapes make it back to the winery. Our pre-phyollexeric vines are visually stunning. They are very tall and imposing with impressively gnarly vine-stock. Regarding the fruit they produce, their root system goes down very deep into the minerals of the soil, so a lot more complexity can be brought to the future wine. Also, their fruit production is much lower than younger vines, which gives us wines with a lot more intensity in every aspect.
Recognising and protecting old vines
As mentioned, definitions of “old vines” can vary from producer to producer, and region to region. Our producers explain how things work in South Africa and Gascony.
Joostenberg: Any vineyard older than 35 qualifies to be certified as a heritage vineyard by the Old Vine Association of South Africa. Interestingly, by law, all vineyards in South Africa must be registered by the tax authorities when they get planted and therefore there are very accurate records of vine age.
Plaimont: Our region, and France as a whole, does a lot to protect its wine heritage. For example, the oldest of our pre-phylloxeric plots is classified as a Historical Monument. This was the first time in France that this designation was given to a monument that wasn’t a building, such as a church or a castle.
Are older vines “higher maintenance”?
In order for vines to continue to age like, well, fine wine, do they require more TLC compared to their youthful and middle-aged counterparts? The producers share their experiences.
Joostenberg: The growth or vigour is slightly reduced and more balanced, therefore there is less work during the season in terms of “summer pruning” (suckering, leaf removal etc.). The pest and disease management is similar.
Plaimont: In regard to treating our old vines, they need to be treated a lot less as they are much more resistant to disease. They’ve already fought off the phylloxera bug! The other main difference is that harvesting must be done by hand. They wouldn’t cope with the stress a machine harvest can cause.
Sustainability
We are living in a world that is increasingly conscious of sustainability, and the wine world is no different. How do old vines fit into this new era?
Joostenberg: There is a big advantage in terms of sustainability. A huge amount of energy, effort and cost goes into removing and replanting a vineyard.
Plaimont: In terms of sustainability, these old vines have had a very positive impact, especially in the face of climate change. We’ve learnt a lot from studying our indigenous grape varieties and using these instead of well-known classics helps us to significantly reduce how much we have to treat the vines against diseases and keeps alcohol levels down naturally. The explanation for this is quite simple: our grape varieties have been around for centuries. They know our climate and have been adapting to changes naturally.
Celebrating old vines
Old vines are a nod to the past and have a clear place in the future. They are rare, hardy, rich in history and cherished for the wine they produce. How do our producers celebrate them?
Joostenberg: We are part of the Old Vine Association and we take part in various events with other wineries that are part of the association. The wines that are certified have a special seal that indicates the age of the vines i.e. Joostenberg Die Agteros Chenin Blanc and Myburgh Bros. Old Vine Chenin Blanc.
Plaimont: To begin with, we created our Old Vine Conservatory which is our cellar dedicated to bringing these old varieties back to life by vinifying them in different ways to see what works best. Plaimont is also one of the original members of the Old Vine Conference. This is a group of growers from across the world that does a lot to protect old vines and celebrate the wines they produce. At this year’s annual awards, we won the Old Vine Hero award for the work we do bringing forgotten grape varieties back to life, something we’re very proud of. Also, every 3 years we hold a 2-day event called the Ampelographic Days where we invite press from across the wine world and our customers to attend presentations, tastings, and round-table discussions about old vines.