I have a ‘bucket list’ of winemakers that I would like to meet. Marchese Lodovico Antinori features high on the list so you can imagine my excitement when I heard he was attending a dinner to introduce the newest vintage of Tenuta di Biserno.
A quiet, charming Italian, it is difficult to imagine he was responsible (and continues to be responsible) for some of the most iconic and revolutionary wines in the world. As the founding father of Ornellaia he created a Super Tuscan that rivalled the success of Sassicaia…
The first vintage of Ornellaia was produced in 1985 with 4-year old vines and only a year later the Marchese took a further revolutionary step when he dared to produce a 100% Tuscan Merlot blend initially called ‘Merlot’ and later released as ‘Masseto’.
After the estate was sold to Mondavi in 2002, Marchese Antinori put all of his energy in Tenuta di Biserno. A testament to Lodovico’s vision is the fact that the core of his team moved with him from Ornellaia.
Tenuta di Biserno is located in Bibbona on the Tuscan coast. It has a unique microclimate which is too cold to ripen Sangiovese properly. However, the cool climate suits aromatic varieties providing a natural home for Cabernet Franc.
Lodovico compares Maremma (home to both Bolgheri and Bibbona) to Pomerol and St. Emilion.
Having done a full geological survey, Lodovico planted the first vines for Tenuta di Biserno in 2002 and as the vines age, quality increases dramatically.
The vineyards are dominated by Cabernet Franc and as I adore Vieux Chateau Certan and Clos Rougeard, one can imagine my excitement for this new enterprise. Apart from Cabernet Franc, Lodovico grows a little Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot (only the father of Masseto can refer to Merlot as adding ‘elegance’) and Petit Verdot.
The addition of 5-10% of Petit Verdot is not only unusual for Italy, but is an unnaturally high percentage even for Bordeaux where it often fails to ripen.
These wines are truly unique.
Dinner was at 1 Lombard Street and the evening started with a glass of Delamotte Blanc de Blancs. Due to unforeseen protests in the streets of London, Lodovico was delayed for his own dinner and the initial introduction was done by Vittorio Mazzetti – long-term friend of the Marchese.
Vittorio has worked closely with Lodovico since 1997, but 2014 will be his last vintage at the estate. As if pre-arranged, Vittorio’s last words heralded the arrival of Lodovico who talked us through the wines.
We tasted the newly released 2011 next to the 2007.
Comparing 2007 to 2008 Lodovico Antinori mentioned that though the media generally prefers 2008, he feels it is too warm (comparing it to Californian wine) and personally prefers the more ‘classical’ 2007.
Introducing 2011, Lodovico welcomes what he calls the ‘new era post-Parker that harvests earlier’.
In search of elegance he has decided to harvest earlier and earlier as his vines have reached maturity – and he understands his terroir. He describes the 2011 vintage as ‘transformation from hopes to reality has happened and we see the true character of the estate’.
Most of these wines are still very young and it will be fascinating to follow them as they develop.
Enough waffle… the wines speak for themselves.
Flight 1# Il Pino 2007 & 2011
Il Pino (‘Pine’) is the second wine of the Estate. 2007 was produced with 35% Cabernet Franc and this was increased to 50% for the 2011 vintage. The 2007 was beautiful to drink now and the only wine at the dinner that had truly entered the drinking stage. Lovely secondary and tertiary sous bois notes made it immediately attractive and a delicious match with the truffles and wild mushrooms served with the beef carpaccio. The 2011 was a step up in quality and showed more intensity and dark fruit purity, with silky texture and a spicy lift from the Petit Verdot. Doubtless it will require longer ageing than the 2007.
Flight 2# Biserno 2007 & 2011
Biserno is the Grand Vin of the estate with a high percentage of Cabernet Franc. Both vintages share a beguiling cool dark-fruit note. The 2007 has a pure lifted quality with grippy tannins and layers of bramble fruit and bramble leaf. Like for 2011 Il Pino, the 2011 Biserno is again a real step up and for many people at our table it was the wine of the night. It was richer than the 2007 with a voluptuous softness of texture. The firm structure was so fine and ripe that it seamlessly integrated into the wine. The dark fruit with coffee and fresh spice lift from the Petit Verdot wonderfully matched the pepper crusted rump of lamb. For those that find it difficult to position Biserno I would compare it to a Super-Second in Bordeaux.
Flight 3# Lodovico 2007 & 2011
And then to Lodovico itself… Only produced in exceptional vintages (2007, 2008, 2011), the grapes come from a specific plot that Lodovico has on a 99-year lease. Nearly a 100% Cabernet Franc (there is a dollop of 6% Petit Verdot in 2011) this is the embodiment of the dream that the Marchese had for this plot (since exploring the region in 1994!). Both wines share a huge dense tight-fisted power that will require patience. The 2011 just had the edge over the 2007 as it felt less forced and extracted with a fresh mid-palate lift and extraordinary length.
A superb evening…