WEINGUT Wwe. Dr.H. THANISCHERBEN THANISCH
“2024 is a really classic Mosel vintage.”
CHRISTINA THANISCH
Wine Region
Mosel, Germany
Vineyard
9 hectares
The Silver Lining
In the words of Christina Thanisch, 12th generation, 2024 proved to be a challenging vintage across Germany. Whilst the producers of Saar and Ruwer were coming to terms with devastating frost-bitten crop losses, winegrowers in the Mosel were battling floods. Christina noted that May usually comes with around 60 litres of rain, but in 2024, it was 170. In fact, the flood water reached the fourth step of the elegant 19th-century Thanisch house, an emblem that adorns their labels. Thankfully, the terraced vineyards are so steep they can’t be blighted by rainwater.
Come summer, growers had respite from damp conditions, but the sunshine and wind came a little too late for botrytis to thrive — the all-important addition for sweeter styles. However, all was not lost. The warmer weather allowed the healthy grapes to fully ripen, producing concentrated fruit ideal for drier wines.
If you have a penchant for dry Riesling, 2024 should have you singing (not in the rain). Grapes that would ordinarily be used to make Auslese, around 15% of Thanisch’s total production, instead were used to make Kabinett wines. The added richness of these grapes makes for exquisite purity and increased extract in the final wines. Thankfully, the Spätlesen at Thanisch were largely unaffected. In 2024, these are the highest level of Prädikate wines made by the majority of producers.
As a classical Riesling fan, the 2024s are exactly what I crave from drier Mosel wines: elegant, aromatic, svelte and electric. The soaring acidity is perfectly tempered by residual sugar, making for mouth-watering whites at very approachable alcohol levels. Über fresh in youth, I’m also excited to see how these will develop over time. Of course, the Grosses Gewächs, made from the best sites, excelled. As noted in Guy Seddon’s tasting notes (see the wines for these), the tiny vineyards dedicated to creating this classification benefit from warmer slopes and mineral-driven terroir. Wines to be both marvelled and enjoyed.
2024 presented what perhaps could have been a disastrous vintage, but instead, something truly wonderful emerged. Dubbed as a perfect Kabinett and Spätlese year, I suspect these wines will be looked back on as quintessential modern Mosels. And so, as they say, every raincloud has a silver lining.
TIFFANY VERNON
FINE WINE OFFERS & BUYING
OCTOBER 2025
KABINETT WINES
THANISCH ESTATE RIESLING KABINETT
The Estate Riesling comes mainly from vineyards around Kues, on the left bank of the Mosel. This is a Gutswein, which has feinherb on the back label. This is cool-fruited and zesty with a fine boned, vivacious palate. The acidity is linear and vibrant. 9.5% abv. Bottled in July 2025 under screwcap.
Corney & Barrow Score 16.5+
Recommended drinking from 2026-2029
£95 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT
This forms a pair with the Feinherb (below). The only difference is the length of fermentation, which here is halted earlier, making this a touch richer and allowing a low alcohol level of 8.5% abv. This is zesty on the nose, with white peach fruit, jasmine and spices. The palate is delectable, offering sherbet and lemon zest at this early stage, with tactile minerality and that steely line of acidity. This is joyful and more corporeal than the Feinherb. You could drink it on its own with no problem. Bottled under screwcap in April 2025.
Corney & Barrow Score 17
Recommended drinking from 2025-2034
£120 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING KABINETT FEINHERB
This ferments for slightly longer than the ‘straight’ Kabinett (above), resulting in a marginally drier style. The nose here is intensely, ripely yellow fruited and slaty. The palate is charmingly open and the most overtly fruity of the lineup so far, offering succulent nectarine, before the dry, tapered finish. This feels like it will blossom in the more immediate term. 10% abv. Bottled under screwcap in July 2025. Of this pair of wines, this is the option for food pairing. A pick!
Corney & Barrow Score 17-17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026-2036
£120 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNKASTELER LAY RIESLING KABINETT
This is a selection from the Lay vineyard, which from 2019-2023 was called Cuvee Christina, and varied between Kabinett and Spätlese. The nose is smoky and mineral with lime zest, leading into a palate of nectarine skin and generous yellow peach, offset against clipped acidity. Classy wine, very elegant and although it is approachable, there is lots of evolution to come. Aged in two 1000L fuders only — one newer and one older. Bottled in May 2025. 8.5% abv.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5
Recommended drinking from 2026-2036
£140 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING KABINETT
The Doctor Kabinett is a legend in the Mosel. In 2024, this showcases the inherent warmth and generosity of the Doctor vineyard, with such finesse. Aromas of crème brûlée and macadamia nuts. The palate is pure, wet stone mineral and honeyed, offering fine yellow stone fruit offset against intricate slaty minerality and lacy texture. The finish is limey and very precise. 8% abv. Bottled in May 2025. Fermented and aged in traditional 1000L oak fuder. 50g/l RS.
Corney & Barrow Score 18
Recommended drinking from 2028-2040
£210 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
SPÄTLESE WINES
BERNKASTELER BADSTUBE RIESLING SPÄTLESE
Lime cordial and slaty mineral aromas lead into a high-acid palate of zesty citrus which fans out on the exceedingly long finish, on which fine mineral extract, white pepper and white flower perfume persist. Just 55g/l RS. This is all about the ageing potential, holding its cards close to its chest at present. 8% abv. Bottled in May 2025.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2026-2034
£135 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING SPÄTLESE
The majestic Doctor vineyard is ever-present when visiting, on the opposite bank of the river from the family house. Smoky and mineral on the nose, with that telltale yellow-hued fruit. The palate combines the joyous soft stone fruit with incisive acidity and mineral tension. The finish is clipped and precise. 8% abv. Fermented and aged in traditional 1000L oak vats. Bottled in May 2025.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2028-2040
£245 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
GROSSES GEWÄCHS WINES
These two wines sit apart from the rest of the Thanisch line-up in that they are totally dry. As such, they are labelled Grosses Gewächs, or ‘GG’s, a pan-German term for the highest quality tier of ‘grand cru’ dry wines, which come from Grosse Lage sites (similar to Burgundy’s grands crus). Some producers, including Thanisch, choose to include the word trocken on the label also, to underscore that these are bone dry wines. Around 20% of the grapes from the Doctor vineyard go into the Doctor GG.
BERNKASTELER GRABEN RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS (TROCKEN)
Bernkasteler Graben is a cooler site, adjacent to the Doctor vineyard. As Christina explains it, the style of Graben, made since 2015, is “really straight and clear”. The vines are 60-80 years old. The family has a 0.5 hectare holding here, all of which is reserved for the GG. This slope has a 65% gradient. Lime rind and zesty lemon on the nose. The palate is enlivened by taut, sprightly acidity with great density and wet stone minerality. This opens much earlier than the Doctor, according to Christina. It finishes tactile, with fine slaty extract coating the mouth. It was bottled in July 2025. 3g/l RS — pretty dry. 12% abv. Fermented and aged half in stainless steel tank, half in a 10hl old oak vat.
Corney & Barrow Score 17+
Recommended drinking from 2027-2042
£180 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
BERNCASTELER DOCTOR RIESLING GROSSES GEWÄCHS (TROCKEN)
One of the top sites of the Mosel, the Doctor is a relatively warm vineyard, with a vertiginous 65% gradient. It is planted with 65–80-year-old vines. The nose is immediately enveloping, offering charming, opulent yellow fruits — apricot and peach — and honeysuckle. The palate is pared back at present, that high line of taut acidity and clipped, focussed slaty minerality holding centre stage. So much clenched power in reserve here — it will age beautifully. This was bottled in July 2025. 12% abv. This is fermented in one 10hl old oak Mosel fuder and one stainless steel tank. It stays on its lees until February, when it is racked into stainless steel.
Corney & Barrow Score 17.5-18
Recommended drinking from 2027-2045
£245 / case of 6 bottles, in bond UK
For any order enquiries, please contact us at [email protected]